Bike To Nature

Commencal Meta AM Downhill

2011-11-05T21:03:00.000-07:00

The Commencal Meta ﬁrmly established a place in our hearts many years ago as one of the early trail-style, do-it-all machines. It also saw its fair share of glory thanks to the likes of Remy Absalon, who’s been instrumental in the development of the all-new AM and has since won the Megavalanche on one.

Ride & handling: Low centre of gravity and slack head angle make this great at speed

Our medium frame size sample provided our 5ft 8in test pilot with the right all-mountain ride position – enough stretch in the top tube and a steep enough seat angle to keep climbing balanced, with weight in just about all the right places. Yet it was still short enough for us to attack the trail at the shift of a gear and with plenty of stability.

We’re big fans of Fox’s new RP23 shock with Adaptive Logic but the shock tune on this pre-production version of the Meta AM didn’t quite offer the suppleness or support we were after from the 150mm (5.9in) of rear wheel travel. Commencal have assured us they're working on a new shock tune though, which is great news and will certainly make this great frame shine.

Our only other real niggle was the constant rattle from the internal cabling, which is easy enough to rectify. The revised rear end felt really stiff and was happy being slammed sideways into turns or soaking up the odd out-of-shape landing. The complete build weighs 13.2kg, so the Meta AM is nimble enough to be ﬂicked around the trail.

Frame & equipment: Awesome chassis with masses of potential

It’s hard not to draw comparisons to the Meta’s bigger brother, the Supreme DHv3, as piloted by the Athertons. Like it, the AM has had a complete overhaul that’s helped lower its centre of gravity. It also has a slackened head angle – now 66.8 degrees – and has been designed around a 2x10 transmission. The shock penetrates the seat tube through the ‘shock tunnel’, helping to remove stress from the down tube, which can be made lighter as a result.

Commencal have opted to use Shimano’s press-ﬁt standard bottom bracket along with a semi-integrated Cane Creek tapered head tube. This not only increases stiffness but also allows for the use of a Cane Creek AngleSet. Other notable features include a post-mount rear brake mount, ISCG 05 chainguide mounts, internal cable routing and a 142x12mm rear axle.

Our test bike came with some of the ﬁnest kit on the market – Fox’s 32 FIT RLC fork and new RP23 rear shock are quite brilliant. The Easton Haven ﬁnishing kit also helps keep standards high while the Formula brakes worked in every condition we threw at them. SRAM’s X0 transmission shifts with a lovable snap and helps keeps things in check weight wise.

(http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/review-commencal-meta-am-12-45396).

Miche Race 707 road wheelset

2011-11-05T20:22:00.000-07:00

Miche are an often overlooked but longstanding component company. The ability to choose white, black or red rims for the same price adds cosmetic appeal and a broad groove in the centre monitors wear over time.

It’ll need checking for imbedded grit, though, and the joint is obvious.
Twenty blade-to-round black spokes are laced radial front, three-cross rear with paired rim insertion at the back. The offside rear was slack all round, which meant a spongy feel when kicking or cornering hard.
Weight is high and responsiveness low, despite an alloy freehub body with deep scalloping. The freehub cartridge bearing is unshrouded, so check the cassette lockring for any corrosion.

(http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/wheel-sets/product/review-miche-race-707-wheelset-11-45431)

Smith Fuel V.2 Sweat-X goggles

2011-11-05T20:18:00.000-07:00

Smith Fuel V.2 Sweat-X goggles
$65 / smithoptics.com
Clear vision is a pretty valuable asset when you’re going fast, and good goggles are an important piece of equipment in every gravity rider’s kit bag.
Smith’s Fuel V.2 Sweat-X goggles provide a nice, solid fit with full-face helmets, and their easy-to-operate, removable “roll-offs” keep your vision clearer than most windshield wipers. Best of all, they won’t litter the trail like tear-offs often do.

(http://www.bikemag.com/gear/fresh-smith-fuel-v-2-sweat-x-goggles/)

Cateye Minimalist From Bookman

2011-10-22T00:57:00.000-07:00

The arrival of winter shouldn't stop you getting some quality road miles or trail time in – you just need to be clever with your kit choices. Today's round-up contains several new products that could help keep you in the saddle as the nights draw in.

Bookman are an urban accessories company based in Stockholm, Sweden. Their new Bookman Lights are about as minimalist as they come and are clearly aimed at the style crowd rather than technophiles. That being said, the single LED on the white front light is surprisingly bright, although we'd still recommend using it as a supplementary or emergency light rather than your main one.
The lights have three modes – constant/flash bursts/flashing – and are each powered by two CR2032 batteries. The simple but effective elasticated attachment fits even the fattest handlebars. Available in six colours (red/white/black/green/yellow/blue), twinpacks containing both front (white LED) and rear (red LED) lights cost £18.99 in the UK and $25 in the US.

(http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/just-in-lights-from-cateye-bookman-and-knog-32108).

SRAM PoerChain 1091R

2011-10-19T09:49:00.000-07:00

No weakest link. SRAM'S new Super Narrow 10-Speed Power Chain features the PowerLock connecting link — the only secure toolless attachment device for a sub 6mm chain in todays market. SRAM PC1091R series chains also feature hollow pin construction and outer plates with lighting holes for weight savings with no sacrifice of strength. Lightweight, smooth, precise-shifting. A true high-performance product.

Specification :

Compatible Gears	10
Closing Link	PowerLock tool-less connecting link
Outer Plate	Nickel Silver w/Lighting Hole
Inner Plate	Nickel Silver
Pin Treatment	Chrome Hardened Pins
Weight	255 Grams (114 links)
Rivet Type	Hollow Pin
Recommended Group	SRAM & Shimano Compatible
Colors	Outer Plate: Nickel Silver w/Lighting Hole; Inner Plate: Nickel Silver

EVS T7 Dimension Dirt Jump Helmet

2011-10-11T09:31:00.000-07:00

EVS is a company devoted to keeping you healthy and happy in a very hostile environment. Of course, the ultimate piece of protective gear is your helmet, so EVS has two different offerings in that category. Both are value-oriented. The T5 line is aimed at the entry-level market (under $100), and this model, the T7, is a step up at $159. With top-of-the-line helmets costing $400, the T7 creates suspicion simply through its affordability. What do you surrender?

In the helmet world, you have to consign credibility to the experts in the field. The latest U.S. helmet rating is SNELL 2010, which is as high as anything in the world. The older SNELL specs were often criticized for their emphasis on tests that were more relevant to street riding, whereas Euro ECE and SNELL 2010 standards are more real world. Without our own labs and standards, we’ll accept a helmet that can pass both. The specs for the European T7 are slightly different from those of the U.S. model, but the bottom line is that it passes the toughest standards.

The shell is polycarbonate and is vented with four front ports and eight rear ports. The liner is removable, and the T7 comes with its own bag. The T7 Dimension comes in a number of color combos. Ours is the CMYK, so named for the color group (cyan, magenta, yellow and black); it makes sense to camera and computer nerds. The graphics are very high-tech. They are virtually seamless and make the helmet look like custom-painted artwork.

POSITIVE: You would never believe that the T7 is anything but a premium-price helmet. First of all, the finish is excellent. You have to look very close to realize the graphics are printed, not painted.
Comfort is excellent too. The liner is soft, the fit is good and there are no obnoxious pressure points. The liner is easy to remove, and it has stood up well to several washings.

NEGATIVE: In summer riding, the T7 isn’t the coolest helmet. The ports might work as well as those of any other helmet, but the biggest vent of all is the eye port, which is partially constricted by a very large chin piece. The helmet weighs slightly over 3 pounds (for a large), which is nothing special, but that’s OK, as there are cases to be made against helmets that are either too light or too heavy. It has no easy removal system, as many premium helmets now feature.

BOTTOM LINE: We get a little nervous when the price on a helmet is too low, but the EVS still strikes us as a good deal. After all, EVS is a company with a foundation in safety gear, and that makes us feel like we can wear it confidently.

(http://www.dirtbikemagazine.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=news&mod=News&mid=9A02E3B96F2A415ABC72CB5F516B4C10&tier=3&nid=60C573AFBB1A40FCA590B899580141CF).

Cane Creek Double Barrel Air

2011-10-11T09:26:00.000-07:00

The air can is able to rotate to accommodate different frame designs, while maintaining the adjustability of a piggyback reservoir—nice.
Cane Creek’s Double Barrel Air has created a bit of a stir, and is finally set to be released in January 2012, with a price comparable to its coil-equipped kin. While that may entail a bit of a premium when compared to others on the market, the Double Barrel provides accordingly. Between both low- and high-speed compression/rebound adjustment, air pressure and air can volume tuning, there’s no shortage of options produce the perfect ride. The air version will weigh in at 530 grams for the 8.5-inch by 2.5-inch version, and will go up or down depending on stroke size.

The DBAir maintains a similar appearance to that of it’s coil-packing cousin.

Pictured here on a Knolly Chilcotin, the DBAir isn’t intended as a lightweight alternative to the Coil, but rather as an option for long-travel, all-mountain bikes.

( http://www.bikemag.com/gear/cane-creek-double-barrel-air/).

Review : TLR XR4 Tires

2011-10-11T09:18:00.000-07:00

Whether you’ll rail a corner or hit the dirt all comes down to how well your tire hook up. These new tires from Bontrager dramatically increase your odds of the former, even on the loosest, sketchiest terrain. Designed by former pro motocrosser Frank Stacy, with input from an army of Trek-sponsored athletes, the TLR’s feel light (and indeed are, at 582 grams), roll fast, and boast an aggressive tread that sticks to even mud-slickened trails like Velcro.

The big side lugs bite hard through tight, fast corners and hold tight in off camber situations. Hardcore XC racers might find them a hair slow on hardpack, but the a blissfully predictable breakaway point and low rolling resistance are well worth the price.

We tested them with tubes, but just add sealant and they’re ready to roll tubeless. TLRs are also available in Team Issue (not tubeless), Expert (durable performance) and Standard (maximum durability) as well as two sizes: 26 x 2.20 (tested), 26 x 2.35; the sister tire, the 29-4 is available in 29 x 2.30.—Selene Yeager

(http://www.bicycling.com/gearfinderproductdetail?gfid=56409).

Night Rider Stuff

2011-10-08T20:55:00.001-07:00

Niterider’s new Race series uses a simple battery connected to their proven Pro head. The head is a relatively compact single-LED unit, attached to the bar with a multi-angle adjustable bracket. This puts it dead centre ahead of your stem but at 75g alone, it’s nearly as heavy as the head unit.

The actual output is a decent balance of speed-friendly depth and singletrack-happy width though, with no obvious dark spots or rings to detract from detail. The four-LED battery indicator lets you accurately judge use of the three evenly stepped output levels too. The long solid battery needs careful siting though, and it’s a relatively heavy system considering its average run times.

(br).

SRAM RISE Mountain Bike Wheels

2011-10-08T20:50:00.000-07:00

SRAM have unveiled their first mountain bike wheels – the carbon-rimmed RISE 60 and aluminum RISE 40. Two years in the making, both sets feature asymmetric 19mm-wide, 26mm-deep rims, fast-engaging rear hubs and a choice of axle fitments. They'll be available in both 26in and 29in versions.

According to SRAM's wheel product manager Bastien Donze, the company had one aim for their first cross-country hoops – they “wanted to build wheels that ride well". "This sounds obvious," he said. "But it's trickier than it sounds.” SRAM's designers came to the conclusion that balance is the key to great mountain bike wheels. They identified six main factors that had to be addressed – weight, inertia, engagement, lateral stiffness, frontal stiffness and efficiency.
At the top of the list was weight, so SRAM kept the materials used as lightweight and minimal as possible, while still maintaining durability. The 26in RISE 60 weighs 1,330g, with the 29er version tipping the scales at a respectable 1,420g. The RISE 40 wheelsets weigh 1,710g and 1,840g, respectively.
Hub engagement was seen as the next key attribute and SRAM's solution for the RISE 60 (the RISE 40 has a standard freehub) is impressive. Using a 54-tooth ratchet ring in the hub body and three pawls in the freehub that each have three teeth, the mechanism features nine purchase points. The increased number of teeth keeps engagement down to a respectable 6.7 degrees, allowing a very snappy reaction.

The RISE 60 rear hub features three pawls that each have three teeth to clutch the 54-tooth ratchet ring
SRAM have addressed lateral stiffness in several ways. Firstly, they say a 2.5mm offset in the rims allows for more balanced spoke tension. Spoke angle and lace pattern have also been selected with stiffness in mind – the wheels are each built up with 24 bladed, straight-pull spokes, laced two-cross; the RISE 60 gets Sapim CX-Ray spokes and alloy nipples, while the 40 is built with cheaper stainless steel spokes and brass nipples.
Both front wheels are interchangeable between standard 9mm quick-release skewers and 15QR through-axles via different side caps. Surface area of the 9mm side caps has been bumped up from the standard 19mm to 31mm, increasing lateral stiffness by a claimed 15 percent. These side caps are only designed to work with RockShox suspension forks and, according to design engineer Jesse Jakomait, 31mm is as large as SRAM could go without rotor interference.
Use of oversized axles and wide placement of the hub bearings adds further resistance to lateral forces. Despite these efforts to keep the wheels stiff, SRAM say the RISE rims are designed with the right amount of give to reduce dents and flats, and increase ride comfort. This is aided by the steel spokes and lacing pattern. Returning to the axle fitment theme, the RISE 60 rear wheel can be swapped between 9x135mm and 12x142, but with the 40 you have to pick one or the other.

Straight-pull Sapim spokes keep weight down and durability up on the RISE 60 wheelset
Neither the 6000-series aluminum or carbon RISE rims are tubeless-ready, but both are compatible with tubeless conversion kits. The RISE 60 wheelsets we rode at SRAM's media camp in southern France were set up tubeless and held up well over the 60+ off-road miles ridden. SRAM’s Paul Kantor told us they’re working on their own RISE-specific conversion kit.
First impressions of the RISE 60 are that SRAM have introduced a very good wheelset. Hub engagement is probably the most noticeable improvement over other wheels out there, as pressure applied to the pedals is almost instantly transferred to the wheel. The lightweight carbon rims took the edge off long, steep climbs, and felt snappy through accelerations.
Lateral stiffness felt appropriate with our 15QR up front and 135mm QR in the back, too. The only slightly disappointing thing was that the logo and graphic decals on the rims were already showing signs of wear after a couple of long rides. SRAM are aware of this and say they’re working on a better option.
The RISE 40 wheelset will cost $550/€465. It's already on the production line and should be shipping from Taiwan later this month. The $2,000/€1,800 RISE 60 is still several weeks out, with ETAs of early December for the 26in version and sometime in February for the 29in version. The carbon rims will be manufactured and assembled in SRAM’s Indianapolis facility alongside SRAM and Zipp carbon road rims.

SRAM make the carbon RISE 60 rims in their Indianapolis factory alongside their carbon road rims

(br).

GENERAL TERMINOLOGY OF BICYCLE PARTS

2011-09-20T09:33:00.000-07:00

Chapter on individual component areas of the bicycle have more specific terminology and definitions. For the purpose of this manual, the following terms apply to the frame and basic components.

Frame : The structural piece, usually a number of tubes joined together, to which all of the components are attached.
Fork : The structural piece that attaches the frame to the front wheel. The fork turns to allow the rider to control the bicycle.
Frame set : The frame and fork combination.
Head Tube : The near-vertical tube that is the forward most past of the frame.
Top Tube : The upper tube of the frame that extends back from the head tube to the seat tube.
Down Tube : The lower tube of the frame that extends the bottom of the head tube to the bottom of the framr (the bottom-bracket shell).
Seat Tube : The near-vertical tube that is at the middle of the frame, which the seat post slides into.
Bottom-bracket Shell : The portion of the frame that contains the crankset bearing parts, which are called the bottom bracket.
Seat Stay : The two tubes of the frame that start from below the seat and meet the chain stays at the center of the rear wheel.
Chain stay : The two tubes of the frame that go from the lower end of the seat tube and meet the seat stays at the center of the rear wheel.
Drop Out : The fittings at the end of the fork and at the juncture of the seat stays and the chain stays, to which the weel are attached.

(barnettmanual).

Marzocchi 55 ATA Suspension

2011-08-04T22:00:00.000-07:00

Marzocchi’s top-of-the-line, all-mountain fork weighs just 4.6 pounds, yet cranks out an impressive 6.5 inches of travel. On top of that, it comes loaded with a suspension lock-out, variable low-speed compression damping, a quick-release, 20-millimeter thru-axle, and 40 millimeters of adjustable travel. It’s a veritable Swiss Army knife on steroids.

Marzocchi says the nickel-coating treatment on its 35-millimeter stanchions reduces stiction and cuts a quarter-pound off the finished product.

Climbing steep pitches while your front wheel flops around like a dying fish isn’t a ton of fun. To that end, the wind-down, travel adjuster on the 55 ATA is easy on the fingers and does a nice job of steepening your head angle. It does, however, take a heck of a lot of clicks (36, to be exact) to drop the fork from 165 to 125 millimeters of travel. With all those clicks at your disposal, it’s easy to lose track of where your ideal ride height is. Hash marks on the stanchions would help.

To reduce unwanted bobbing, Marzocchi outfitted the 55 ATA with its premier compression-damping system—TST Micro. In a nutshell, you twist the gold knob at the top of the left fork leg to fine-tune the firmness of the suspension “lock out” (i.e., the amount of low-speed compression damping you want). You can set the fork to ride hard as a rock or as soft as Jell-O without resorting to getting off the bike, fiddling with five different knobs, changing air pressures, or taking a college-level course in fluid dynamics.

You can also fine-tune the fork’s spring rate and bottom-out resistance by adding air to the PAR (positive air resistance) chamber. The 55 ATA can feel surprisingly coil-like or it can ramp up steeply at the end of its stroke. Adding or subtracting just a few PSI in the PAR chamber completely changes the nature of this fork.

After two months of flogging the 55 ATA, I’m a big fan. Despite its insanely light weight, the 55 ATA is darn near double-crown stiff, the stroke is smooth and predictable, the thru-axle system is easy to use, the fork seems almost impervious to mud, and I could easily adjust it to ride any damned way I wanted.

(www.bikemag.com).

DMR Dirt Jump Wheelset

2011-07-18T08:40:00.000-07:00

DMR are well known among dirt jumpers and 4X riders, but this seriously tough wheelset shows they deserve wider recognition. At just over 500g, the new Thret rim is 250g lighter than previous DMR hoops, although chunky hubs and thick 36-spoke lacing mean it’s still an effort to get them going – but these hand-built wheels have proved unfalteringly stiff and strong.

The DMR front hub is fully axle versatile and the superfast pick-up six-pawl rear comes in bolted or 12mm bolt-through options. They’re proven for taking the biggest drops or most savage power snap without flinching, and there’s no trace of flex on the trail. Both rims and hubs are available in a wide range of colours.

(br).

Cervelo S5 Road Bike

2011-07-17T06:33:00.000-07:00

Cervelo, the brand arguably responsible for popularizing the modern aero road bike, has pulled back the curtain on a their latest iteration. The S5 will be the weapon of choice for Garmin-Cervelo team riders at the upcoming Tour de France. It’s a faster, stiffer and lighter frame than the S3, says Cervelo. The S3, however, is no slouch as the winner of our Editors' Choice Race Bike award and the platform upon which Thor Hushovd won the 2010 World Championships. The S5 may not win any awards for beauty, but Cervelo thinks it's the world’s fastest frame approved for professional racing.

From the outside, the S5 looks more aerodynamic than the S3, owing particularly the rear-wheels sheltering seat tube cutout and wide seat stays. The overall theme and the key to the S5's improved aerodynamic performance, says Cervelo, was minimizing the number of leading and trailing edges. For example, the S5's downtube was "dropped" so it now tucks behind the fork crown: this turns multiple surfaces – the fork crown and the downtube behind the fork crown – into a single surface and eliminates an area of high turbulence found on other frames, allowing air to slip more efficiently over the frame.

The seat tube cutout has the same goal, routing wind around the seat tube and the tire as a single surface, not two. A seat tube cutout is not a unique feature, lots of Tri and TT bikes have one (and even some other road bikes), but Cervelo improved on the concept. The cutout is optimized for 23mm tires, and the dropouts are vertical (bikes with a large seat tube cutout usually have horizontal dropouts), for no-hassle wheel changes.
According to Cervelo's wind tunnel testing, installing a water bottle on the average road frame adds 5 watts of drag; two bottles add 10 watts. On the S5, Cervelo nests the bottles closely together in an attempt to get the wind to flow more smoothly over the two bottles. That, combined with careful downtube shaping, leads Cervelo to estimate a half-watt saving for each bottle. Still obsessing over water bottle placement, Cervelo added a special feature for professional athletes who often have a follow vehicle and only carry one bottle at a time. For those riders, Cervelo installed an extra set of bottle bosses in a low position on the downtube which it saves 1.4 watts compared to traditional bottle placement.

These aero tricks, along with a shielded rear brake, result in a frame that Cervelo claims saves 9.2 watts compared to the S3, when riding at 25 miles per hour. Measured in time, the S5 is 38.6 seconds faster than an S3 in a 40-kilometer time trial. Compared to the non-aero race bikes that Cervelo tested, the S5 saves up to 32 watts.

(bicycling.com)

Best Mountain Bikes To Ride 2011

2011-07-17T06:26:00.000-07:00

Winner: As we romped on Sedona's trails, navigating numerous ledges, drops, and rock-strewn singletrack, the Specialized S-Works Enduro leapt to the top of our list. In a group of fun bikes, it was simply the most enjoyable to ride.

The Enduro was longer, lower, and slacker than the other bikes in the test, descending so fast that testers called it a mini-DH bike. The suspension felt right in every situation, whether skipping over square-edged bumps or floating along undulating singletrack.

The Enduro was also responsive on less challenging terrain. It wasn't the most efficient-pedaling bike in this category, causing some testers to hit the ProPedal switch to damp suspension, but it was good enough for long days in the saddle. We also liked the dropper post and shift guide; no other bike in the test included both.

When it came to climbing, the Ibis Mojo was a favorite among testers. The DW-Link suspension was crisp and efficient, providing amazing rear-wheel traction. While the Mojo proved an excellent descender, its frame was the least stiff of these bikes.

The Santa Cruz Nomad Carbon, on the other hand, boasted a stiff frame and smooth travel that offered outstanding control on big hits. The VPP suspension offered efficient pedaling on rolling trails, too. With a slightly steeper head angle and shorter cockpit than the Enduro, the bike was easier to control on technical terrain, but offered less stability on wide-open descents.

With 185mm of rear travel, the Scott Genius LT 10 was the longest-travel bike in the test. It felt big and brawny, but flipping a switch reduced travel and steepened the geometry. The suspension felt less responsive than the others, but the Genius would still make an excellent choice for riders who want a nimble, relatively lightweight bike with tons of travel.

SPECIALIZED S-WORKS ENDURO
$7,500; 27.2 lb. (M) Info: specialized.com
IBIS MOJO HD XT
$5,000; 29.1 lb. (M) Info: ibiscycles.com
SANTA CRUZ NOMAD CARBON SPX AM
$4,890; 28.9 lb. (M) Info: santacruzbicycles.com
SCOTT GENIUS LT 10
$6,500; 30.0 lb. (M) Info: scott-sports.com

(bicycling.com)

New Fuji Altamira Road Bike

2011-07-17T06:13:00.000-07:00

Fuji's newest road platform, the Altamira—named after (we're not making this up) a prehistoric cave and museum in Cantabria, Spain, where the Fuji-sponsored Footon team is based—boasts frame weights as low as 815 grams.
There are two versions of the frame—the high-end LTD and 1.0 models use higher grades of carbon than the 2.0 and 3.0 models—but all frames share a tapered head tube with 1.5 lower bearing and a press-in BB86 bottom bracket system. The Altimera line starts with the Shimano 105-equipped 3.0 ($2,549) and runs up to the Dura Ace Di2-equipped LTD ($9,449).

(bc) .

Road Bike Trends For 2011

2011-07-17T06:07:00.000-07:00

You’re forgiven if you think that headline is representative of the depths the bike industry has gone to to attract new interest from cyclists. We’ve certain seen some kooky stuff pop up at past shows. But for the 2011 model year there is no clear single trend—seatmasts! aero road!—dominating the road side of things.

Instead, there are several mini-trends we noted that merit mention. A quick rundown:

Metal is Back
Several brands are again pushing aluminum bikes in the mid-range—the $1,500-$2,500 price level—but with quality parts instead of the inexpensive mixes we got used to seeing. Raleigh has one of the most striking examples, an Ultegra-equipped model called the Revenio 4.0. It’s $1,600 and is a kind of race/all-duty blend, good for going fast or for putting on a rack and running errands.

Why metal? Our guesses: first, carbon has reached, for now, a logical endpoint for many bikemakers. Giant’s $1,650 Defy Advanced 4 has pushed carbon to new territory price-wise, but it’s a move only a brand like Giant can pull off because they make all their own stuff; that vertical integration and size gives them pricing power no one else has. Faced with that, other bike companies can’t match it, so they’re going in different directions.

Second, and slightly more ominously, carbon fiber is getting more expensive along with other commodities. For years leading up to the economic crisis, the talk was of carbon scarcity. The recession blunted that, but it’s on the way back, say industry insiders we talk to. Metal may make a further comeback in coming years at even higher price points.

Aero Cues
Performance road bikes have historically fit one of two templates: blocky but efficient (think Cervelo’s R3) or aero-but-heavy and not quite as stiff (Felt’s AR). Now, we’re seeing aero styling and design creep into all-around road models. Orbea’s redesigned Orca features close-swept seatstays that flare out only at the rear dropout, and slick external cable routing that hugs the ribs in the downtubes.

Internal cable routing is big – like on the Masi Evoluzione seen here. And Eddy Merckx’s EMX-5 features aero bladed seatstays and internal routing, among other cues. They’re not aero road bikes per se, but they have aero features.

Fewer Seatmasts
Two years ago, integrated seatmasts were all the rage. If you had a top of the line bike, it had a seatmast. Now, well, not so much anymore. Most of the masted bikes have kept that status, but there’s been a quiet pullback as well as new models come with traditional posts.

Why? Masts are great in theory, but they can be less than practical in a number of ways. The finality of cutting once to a set seat height freaks people out, they’re hard to pack for travel, it cuts down the re-sale value of the bike (perhaps a theoretical concern, but one people do consider) and, if damaged, sometimes repair options are slim. (Special kudos here to brands like Time, whose seatmasts can be cut to top tube height and simply replaced with a standard collar and 27.2 post if damaged.)

Bike buyers may just not see the potential benefits in ride quality and stiffness, and as a premium feature it’s cool, but not a dealbreaker/maker. Whatever the reason, we’re seeing less of them this year as brands pull back.

Crazy Paint
The mad-scientist geniuses at Arizona shop/distributor Fairwheel Bikes had a wild Parlee track bike with a hand-painted finish by graphic designer and artist Geoff McFetridge, but even stock paint schemes ranged from the understated and impressive (Dario Pegoretti’s “Stucco” look) to the unfortunate (the airbrushed “Liger” on the Max Lelli TT bike of the same name). Oh, and for whatever reason the color of the year seems to be Kawasaki-style “team green.”

(bc) .

I-Clic Carbon Titanium Pedals

2011-07-13T14:22:00.000-07:00

Time has also moved towards an oversized platform, a slightly narrower 52mm width but a longer cleat bed at 75mm. The longer, narrower shape doesn’t feel quite as stable as the Blade, and once the cleats wore in we did experience a little rocking. Despite being longer than the Blades, the titanium axled I-Clics have a much more open design, and weigh slightly less at 182g a pair. The entry-level Fibreflex versions (£82.99) are 260g a pair.

Time’s carbon sprung design uses an ‘auto-step-in’ engagement system: as you place your foot on the pedal, it opens and clamps your shoe. With no need to push through spring tension it’s easy to clip in. It’s different to any other system – and the best we’ve tried.
The I-Clic Carbon Titanium offers plenty of adjustability: the float can be altered through +/- 5 degrees which is great if your knees are a bit dodgy, and there’s a further 2.5mm of offset adjustment. Three extensions, on either side of the cleat and up front enable you to walk without damaging the engagement points or needing covers, but they do wear rapidly and can eventually break off. However, although the cleats wear faster than Look or Shimano, their ease-of-use means I-Clics are definitely our favourite pedals right now.

(br)

Germany Fixie Bike Review

2011-06-04T21:33:00.000-07:00

German company Fixie Inc have unveiled their range for 2010 which includes a new retro machine, a belt drive bike and updates to older models in the range like the Betty Leeds and Chip Race.

Backspin
The new steel-framed Backspin (main image) is aimed at riders who want to give fixed gear a try on a budget. At 850 euros (approx £730/US$1,200), it comes with toe clips, low-rise bars, a flip-flop rear hub and retro BMX saddle.

Black Jack

If retro’s your thing, then the new Black Jack is definitely going to hit the spot with its gloss and matt black finish and polished stainless steel highlights. Redesigned to set it apart from its younger brother the Peacemaker, it has a new Seagull handlebar, threaded headset and a height adjustable, polished quill stem.

Peacemaker
Like Trek’s 2010 District bike, the new Peacemaker uses a Gates carbon belt drive and can be run fixed or singlespeed. The advantages of the belt drive are low maintenance, light weight and a quieter drivetrain.

Fixie Inc's JigSaw fastening allows the belt to be inserted into the frame’s rear triangle without bending the chainstay.

Specialized Myka, Mountain Bike For Women

2011-06-04T21:15:00.000-07:00

Hardwired for the most fun on two off-road wheels, the Myka will quickly make riding your favorite pastime.
Built for lightweight efficiency with anatomical engineering and components for women, the Myka is the best performing recreational mountain bike at a value everyone can appreciate.(br)

Braking Technique For MTB Newbie Rider

2011-06-02T01:58:00.000-07:00

Bad braking technique is one of the biggest causes of crashes for both novice riders. Novices are far more prone to panic braking, harsh use of the brakes at the last minute or in an emergency, which causes one or both wheels to skid leading to loss of control of the bike.

As covered in the Beginners section, spotting a hazard early and therefore knowing when to brake is an important part of braking. It gives you plenty of time to slow down gently in a straight line without grabbing a handful of brake and loosing control. Keeping your brakes covered with at least one finger at all times allows instant smooth breaking rather than grabbing at the lever. Braking with only your index or index and forefinger allows the other fingers to maitain control of the handlebars.

We also talked about braking evenly with both brakes. This was because the rider was braking gently in the seated position riding on smooth, grippy trails using relatively gentle braking force.

In the Fundamentals section will be looking at braking when riding in the standing ‘attack’ position which allows a much greater braking force to be safely applied and covers progressive braking, using the front and rear brakes independantly, bracing against braking forces and braking on loose or slippy surfaces.

Tips

Always keep at least one finger on each brake.

Stop quicker by applying the brake slower to get some weight on the front wheel before braking fully.

Try to do your braking in a staright line on firmer sections of trail.

Your brakes have a lever NOT a switch. Use the extra control it gives you.

If a wheel starts to skid under braking, release the brake then re-apply with a little less pressure.

Brake less with the front as the trail gets loose.

Cassette Sprocket Maintenance Tips

2011-05-23T23:13:00.000-07:00

At some time in the life of your cycle your going to have to change the cassette, you can take it to the bike shop, but its better you learn you to do it your self

Replacing a cassette is not a difficult job, but there can be a couple of problems you could come up against if you decide to take on the job yourself.

The Right Tools For The Job

Before you start to take off the cassette you had better make sure you have the tools to do it! Two of these tools are very special and your going to have to buy them from a bike shop, as they are not used for anything else.

1. Cassette lock-ring tool

This tool fits into the lock-ring so you can loosen it, there are different lock-rings for Shimano or Campagnolo, but I have found that you can use the same tool for both, as they are so similar.

2. Chain whip

This tool holds the cassette so that it doest turn when you loosen the lock-ring. Its called a chain whip because this is what it looks like, a bar with a short length of chain at the end.

You also need a adjustable spanner, one big enough and long enough to shift a really tight lock-ring, anything over a foot long should do it, but the longer the better also the jaws have to open wide enough for the lock-ring tool, about 16mm.

Lets Get Started

First thing you have to do is to take the rear wheel out, remember to put the gear onto the smallest sprocket, which will make it easier to remove and replace the wheel.

Take the quick release out of the axle, put the lock-ring tool into the lock-ring with the wheel at your feet leaning against your legs and the cassette facing away.

Holding the adjustable spanner in your right hand with lock-ring tool in the jaws of the spanner.

Rap the chain of the chain whip over the top of a sprocket so that you’re holding it in the left hand thus stopping the cassette from turning the same way as the lock-ring.

Pushing down with both hands the lock-ring should come lose, this is where you might come up against a problem, you might need a lot of strength to do this as they can get tight.

When the lock-ring is loose just slide of the old cassette, to fit the new one you just slide it on to the cassette freewheel body, that’s the thing that’s on the side of the wheel hub.

The sprockets will only fit on the cassette freewheel body in one position as there are different sized splines on the inside, then you have to replace the lock-ring tightening with the adjustable spanner.

You don’t need the chain whip as you’ll be tightening the lock-ring against the freewheel. That’s it, just put the wheel back into the bike and away you go, remember to put the chain on the smallest sprocket when you put the wheel back in, it’s a lot easier.
(bcr)

Buy A Classic Bicycle Tips

2011-05-21T06:27:00.000-07:00

Classic and retro bicycles are in huge demand in the present day – just have a look at the listings on eBay and you will see it for yourself. There are lots of benefits to purchasing a vintage bike over a model new one. For starters, you are doing all your half to assist recycle and not create new waste. You may also get really lovely bikes for a fraction of the price of a new one. If an older bike appeals to you, it’s vital that you simply be certain it is in good working situation and that it is value what the vendor is asking for it.

Many sellers will say that a bike has been restored or serviced, so don’t be afraid to ask exactly what was done. Oftentimes all they’ve finished is pumped up the tires and given it a fast clean. Here are some issues to look out for when shopping for your vintage bike. Gear and Brake Cables : The brake cables will likely be straightforward to identify if they’ve been replaced. Previous ones will look rusty and frayed or corroded. It’s a good suggestion to verify the bike has good cables or new cables as they are essential to the security of the rider.

The brake pads also needs to be new and not worn down. It is also vital that they are adjusted accurately so that you can stop quickly if you hit the brakes. The gears also needs to be in good working order. It is crucial that they are regarded over thoroughly by a motorcycle mechanic to verify they are adjusted correctly. Tires and Wheels : The rims on the bike tires must be trued and tensioned and should spin freely with none wobble or interference. If the tires do not, then you definately’ll have to have the bearings serviced. The bearings and bottom bracket must be cleaned and re-greased or else replaced completely.
(cbp) .

Black Backspin Freestyle Fixie

2011-05-21T04:55:00.000-07:00

New visual highlights such as translucent pedals, saddle and grips combined with pedal clips and a low-rise handlebar define the new BMX/Fixed crossover trend. Fixie Inc claims the Backspin isn’t solely about exterior looks: the new 68-wheel-concept combines compact 26in wheel sizes in the smallest frames XS, S and M which feature new proportional frame geometry. This eliminates toe overlap when cornering.
Fixie Inc claims it as the perfect solution for ladies and smaller gentlemen. Frame sizes L, XL and XXL are fitted with the normal 28in (700c) wheel size. The new ShuRi rear hub introduces a new design where the fixed rear cog is attached using a 6-bolt design similar to a disc brake. No special tools are needed other than a hex wrench and destroyed rear sprocket threads and bloody knuckles will be a thing of the past.

New Features:

* 68 Wheel Concept fits the wheel diameter to the frame size – no toe overlap
* ShuRi rear wheel hub: Fixed gear without special tools in demand BMX
* FlipFlop rear hub allows use with freewheel or fixed

(br)

Why Fixie?

2011-05-21T04:17:00.000-07:00

What's a "fixie?"
“Fixie" is short for “fixed gear,” which is a slang term for bicycles that have drivetrains with one gear that's fixed to the rear wheel so that you cannot coast and must continue pedaling whenever the bike's moving. Fixies are among the most simple of bicycles because they don't require derailleurs, shifters, double- or triple-chainring cranksets, or, in some circumstances, even brakes.

For example, some skilled riders capable of stopping simply by holding back on the pedals with their feet, eschew brakes. And, even more advanced — though the most common fixies are road models — there are also individuals who enjoy mountain-bike fixies, too. (Not to be confused with singlespeeds, which allow coasting.)

Fixies are fun!
Due to their uniqueness (riders often paint and decorate their fixies and add unusual components and accessories) and elegant simplicity both in appearance and operation (fixies require significantly less maintenance, too), the fixed-gear phenomenon has become a thriving and fascinating fringe element of cycling.

You've probably seen fixie riders darting about town in traffic because they look so different than standard roadies or mountain bikers. And, maybe you've wondered why these unusual bikes are so popular and how it is that people can bike around with only one gear, and one that doesn't allow coasting, either. To answer these questions and to help you join the fixie fun, here are some insights into these wonderful machines. Keep in mind that we're always happy to show you our selection of fixed-gear bicycles, discuss options and help you with all your fixie projects.

That smooth fixie feeling
Fixies offer simplicity that harkens back to the earliest days of cycling when one gear was common. Because your feet are directly connected to the rear wheel, which drives the pedals around, your pedal stroke becomes nearly perfect and with no dead spot in the stroke, you are more efficient. Also, you learn to spin more efficiently because you have to pedal constantly and you must pedal faster on every downhill. No mental energy is wasted fiddling with shifting mechanisms, either.

Ultimately, the connection between the rider and the machine is almost perfect. Some, like this rider are so skilled they can balance in place and slow and stop even without brakes. What's more, because fixed-gear bicycles, and those who ride them, tend to be quirky and unique, this trendy type of cycling has taken on a fun countercultural aspect. But remember, anyone can have fun on a fixie. You don't have to be a tattooed bike messenger to enjoy and appreciate the ride (though, if you are, so much the better)!

Track versus road fixies
Many people think of fixed-gear bikes and track bikes as the same, but they aren't. Track bicycles (image, left) are designed for use on velodromes (indoor and outdoor oval bicycle tracks designed for racing). They do not have brakes because they aren't necessary due to the uniform direction of travel, lack of corners and the fact that no one can stop any faster than you can. In fact, most velodromes forbid the use of brakes for safety. Because velodrome surfaces are usually super smooth and uniform and because the racing events are usually fast and demanding, track bicycles boast frames that are built quite stiff for maximum efficiency. Plus, to promote better high-speed handling, the track bike's frame geometry is tighter and more race-oriented.

While some fixie fanatics prefer to ride track bikes on the street, especially those who are or were into track racing, it's generally not the best option for real-world fixed-gear riding due to the unforgiving stiff ride and lightning-quick handling, which respectively, beats you up a bit and forces you to pay close attention when riding. A better choice for most riders are fixies designed for the street, such as the ones we sell (keep in mind that we can easily convert any fixie to allow coasting should you prefer that option).

It's also possible to build your own fixie starting with a bike with standard road geometry and clearance for wide tires and even fenders. These rigs are available complete and can be built from older road bikes, too. We carry a full assortment of components and accessories and can help you with advice and the right parts should you want to take this approach.

Only one gear? Which one?!
Since there's only one gear on a fixie, choosing the best one is important. You'll need to weigh how you like to pedal (how fast you pedal), where you enjoy riding (the hills or flats, or both), and have a feeling for how fit you are (stronger riders can handle higher gears and vice versa). One tip is that with a fixie you can get away with a slightly higher gear than you’re used to, thanks to the added efficiency and momentum of the rear wheel and fixed gear that keep the pedals turning around. Another way to determine which gear to use is to select one that is easy enough to get you up the hills you need to climb yet one not so easy that you lose control on the way down.

When you buy a new fixie we can help you choose the perfect gear. And, you'll have the opportunity to ride the bike and feel if it's right for your fitness, terrain and needs.

Hub hubbub
The Phil Wood fixed-gear hub is bicycle jewelry!One of the most important parts of any fixie is the rear hub. It's a bit of a special animal that incorporates two opposing sets of threads on the right side, one for the fixed cog and one for the lockring. The lockring threads on in the opposite direction, flush against the cog so that backpedaling forces don’t cause the cog to come off.

Some hubs have two sets of these opposing threads or standard freewheel threads on the left side so that you can install a different-size cog on the other side, or a one-speed freewheel to that side. This allows flipping the wheel around in the frame to change the gear or allow the bike to coast.

An interesting detail of fixie rear hubs is that they usually feature threaded axles and high-quality threaded axle nuts rather than the quick releases you see on standard road and mountain bikes. This is because most fixies feature horizontal dropouts on the frame, which make chain tensioning possible, but also don't lock the rear wheel in one position. The threaded axle and nuts are necessary to prevent the wheel from changing positions under the additional torque on the rear wheel and drivetrain of fixed-gear riding.

Do I need a special chain?
There are two common bicycle chain types, referred to by their widths, which are 1/8 inch and 3/32 inch. Most track fixies use the wider, heavier 1/8-inch chain (also used by BMX bicycles and old-fashioned roadsters). However, 3/32-inch chains and chainrings are much more common, because they're the same type used on 8-, 9-, and 10-speed road and mountain bikes. So, these are more frequently used on fixies.

Plus, if you're building a fixie out of an old 10-speed, using a 3/32-inch chain means being able to use the crankset it came with originally. Another benefit is that these chains are usually more flexible than 1/8-inch models, which translates to smoother and quieter pedaling. They're lighter, too.

What frame to use?
You can convert any frame to fixed-gear use providing that it has horizontal dropouts because these are essential for tensioning the chain. These adjustable dropouts were common on steel road bicycles built around 10 to 20 years ago and more.

And, as a bonus, these stalwart steeds of yore were typically hand brazed of great-riding quality steel tubing and used attractive lugs to join the tubes. If you can find a fine second-hand road frame or bicycle like this, it's a great place to start your fixie project. You might want to double check that old 10-speed in the garage (or your neighbor's shed) — chances are, it'll work great!

Get cranky
On these older 10-speeds, the original crankset will work fine, though you may need to change the small chainring if it's not a 42-tooth model (which results in a reasonably easy all-around gear). If you have several cranksets to choose from, pick one with slightly shorter crankarms than you normally use (the length is usually printed on the back, or measure from the center of the pedal hole to the center of the crank-bolt hole). Shorter crankarms make higher cadences easier to handle on fast downhills.

Make it your own
One of the best things about fixies is that you can add custom touches to make yours unique. We're talking about more than the requisite personalized sticker, bell or cards in the spokes; that's just the beginning. How about flat bars, motorcycle grips, disc wheels and deep-dish color-matched rims and hubs? Or, maybe you'd like to install vintage bicycle parts that you've always wanted, such as cottered cranks, leather saddles and ornate quill stems. Let your imagination take your fixie project where no bike has gone before! And, don't forget the home-brew paint job to make your fixie unmistakably yours.

We hope you find this guide to fixies informative and helpful and we look forward to showing you our fixies and helping you with all your cycling projects!

(bh)

Fixie Braking Technique

2011-05-20T04:20:00.000-07:00

Since fixie braking is more involved, you'll need to remain extremely aware of your surroundings. Constantly scanning the road for hazards is ideal while riding through traffic, but you'll have it a little easier while practicing. Try to define an ideal stopping point in your practice area by setting up goal markers like traffic cones. With a definitive "red zone" to work with, you'll be able to practice stopping short of (or even skidding around) obstacles.

Despite all the inherent danger, there is some good news. When it comes to slowing down, fixed gear riders have a few different choices. Each comes with its own set of pluses and minuses (as well as ideal riding conditions), so it's wise to learn at least a couple. The two most common are:

Pace Pedaling

Decreasing the speed of your pedaling is the easiest ways to slow down a fixie. Since the rotation of the rear wheel and the movement of the pedals are directly connected, slowing down your strokes will put a damper on forward motion. In non-emergency situations this should bring you to a smooth, natural stop -- time/distance permitting of course.
While ideal in typical riding conditions, a disadvantage to this method is that if you try to stop very quickly, the pedals will simply continue to turn, bouncing you up and down. This typically happens when you are afraid of hitting something, can cause loss of control, and is very ineffective at slowing you down.

Skid Stopping

Is "danger" (or "speed") your middle name? Then the skid stop is probably more up your alley. The process is started by leaning forward on the bike and relieving the weight on the rear wheel. If you have the balance to lift the rear wheel ever-so-slightly off the ground, even better. Once the traction of the rear wheel has been taken out of the equation, use your feet to lock the pedals in a horizontal position. Push down on the pedal coming up, and pull up on the pedal going down (this is why being attached to the pedals is important). This should slow the suspended rear wheel to a stop. Shifting weight back onto the rear wheel should cause the rear tire to skid, causing the bike to slow to a stop.
Skidding on the rear wheel will stop a fixed gear bike more quickly than pedal pacing, but (obviously) can damage the tire (even causing flats with light tires). In slippery conditions, pedal pacing may actually allow you to stop more quickly- optimal stopping power actually occurs just short of a skid.

Using Brakes

A sure fire way to stop a fixed gear bicycle (or any bicycle) is to apply smooth and gradual pressure to both brake levers, bringing the bike to quick, short and safe stop. In situations requiring a rapid stop, almost all of your stopping power comes from your front brake, so mounting only a front brake is an acceptable compromise. Some track bikes don't have mounting holes for rear brakes, but at the very worst you can get a fork that allows for a front brake.

Fixie Bike History

2011-05-06T10:17:00.000-07:00

Fixed gear bicycles have become the ultimate item in urban chique. Messengers glide effortlessly in and out of traffic in a show of defiance and freedom among lines of cars chained to the grind of the daily commute. Fixie bikes are simple and elegant, with clean lines and a genuine beauty which springs from their lack of complexity, stripped to the bare requirements of pedaling, steering and rolling. And they are becoming more popular as more people discover the joy of riding single speed and fixed gear.

Single speed riding requires a different kind of approach. The fixed gear does not allow you to coast. In fact, going downhill can be hard work. The cog on the rear wheel is bolted directly the hub so that your pedals must go at the same speed as your rear wheel. This also means your pedals can be used to slow down the bike, and the ability to pedal backwards make the impressive track stand you sometimes see messengers doing when the traffic lights are at red, all the easier to perform.

But where did the fixie come from? Some of the first ever bikes were fixed gear – look at the Penny Farthing, and you will see that the pedal cranks are connected directly to the hub of the front wheel. Before the advent of the derailleur, which allowed bicycles to have gears, single speed bikes the only race bike available. And they were big news in the sporting world. In 1876, Madison Square Garden was built to accommodate a velodrome racing track. Bike racing on the original fixed gear track bikes attracted huge crowds and turned bike racers in to stars. In fact, bike racers back in those days could earn almost $150,000 per year compared with a tradesman’s salary of around $5,000. One of the best known events in the sport of track racing, was the hour record where world riders would pit themselves against the clock in an attempt to ride as far as they possibly could in an hour. Some of the greats of the sport have held the hour record, including Francesco Moser, Eddy Merckx and Miguel Indurain. Graeme Obree successful record attempt on a homemade fixie, partly made from old washing machine parts, was made the subject of the movie “The Flying Scotsman”.

Fixie RiderThe halcyon days of track racing in the USA are perhaps behind us, although the sport has enjoyed a resurgence of interest as an Olympic sport, and more nations are putting resources into track racing. But the legacy of the fixed gear bike is alive and well.

Some of the features of those old track bikes, you might think, make the fixie less than ideal for riding in an urban setting, as opposed to riding indoors on a banked track, with no traffic or pedestrians to contend with. Others disagree. Fixie riders who ride without brakes have to anticipate their next move much further in advance than their free-wheeling colleagues. Fixie riders talk of the feeling of Zen-like peace and flow as they become as one with their bike, flowing through the streets and cars of downtown. Others compare riding their fixie to a game of chess, anticipating the movement of the traffic as a chess player would anticipate the moves of his opponent, and reacting accordingly. In any event, the history and the evolution of the fixie has moved on to accommodate the needs of every rider, and in particular the urban rider.

Fixie bikes are probably best known for their uniqueness and variety. You will see track bicycles in the city with their dropped handlebars, but you will also see machines with flat handlebars, bikes with brakes and bikes without brakes. Experience fixed gear riding for yourself – it really is an entirely different style of riding and transport that allows you to feel very connected to your bike. Whether you choose a track bike or an urban machine, you too can get the feel of cycling on one of the oldest and best established types of bicycle – a form of cycling that is as enjoyable today as it ever was.

(bigshotbike)

Fixie Chain Maintenance

2011-05-06T10:08:00.000-07:00

Basically the chain should be tight enough to engage the sprockets without binding (too tight) , or skipping (too loose).

For maximum forward and reverse pressure control, you want the chain to have a slight ‘pre-load’ against the teeth. You can guestimate this very easily by checking the slack at the center of the chain . It should be about 10 – 15mm.

Now this is only part of the task. Because chances are, neither your rear cog or front chainring are perfectly round and centered. So, you will generally have a tight point and a loose point in the chain. So, the next step is to center the chainring. We can do this by un-tightening the chainring bolts just so they are lightly snug, then we rotate the crank slowly until you have the tightest point. Then what I do is take my handy peanut butter wrench and tap the chain in the middle a few times. If there is enough slack in the chainring bolts, you should be able to get an ever-so-slight reduction in chain tension. Then tighten the bolts back up following a star pattern (imagine you are drawing a star in a single stroke – that’s the order you should tighten your chainring bolts).

Then repeat the above process a couple times. This will get you very close to a perfectly centered chainring and consistent chain tension as possible.
After you’ve done this, then go back and check the overall chain tension again. For longest wear and least stress on the bearings, its best to run just a little on the loose side. But for best fixie control and pedal response, its best to run it just a bit on the tight side. I typically run my chain tighter on the track than I do on the road – but its a very slight difference.
One tip when tightening chain is to hold the wheel firm and slightly offset from center – maybe 2-4mm, then snug the axle nut. Then push the wheel to center and tighten the opposite axle nut. This will let you ‘rock’ the chain into a slightly tighter tension easily. Especially if you are not using chain tugs (recommended), or have worn dropouts that make it hard to get an exact placement for chain tension.

That’s it for now! I’ll be posting some more basic maintenance tips as we go along. During this exercise I found that my KMC NJS chain was stretched irregularly resulting in more tension variance than I prefer. So, I swapped my chain back to they trusty Izumi Super Toughness and all is good!
(roadfixie)

Be Safe With Your Fixie

2011-05-06T09:54:00.000-07:00

A fixed gear bicycle (also called a "fixie" or a "track bike") is a single-speed machine with a fixed drive train, meaning the pedals spin at the same rate as the rear wheel. It is impossible to coast on a fixed gear bike, leading to a different style of riding from traditional free wheel-equipped bikes. Riding a fixed gear bike develops leg strength, pedaling technique and overall riding efficiency as the rider pedals through all kinds of terrain.

Gear Selection

Choose a gear that suits the terrain. For hilly routes, select a gear easy enough to get up a hill, but heavy enough that you can safely pedal down the other side (you must pedal uncomfortably quickly as the rear wheel speeds up on steep descents). On flat roads, use heavier gears to improve power or lighter gears to improve pedaling cadence. Harder gears make you more nimble in heavy traffic, because you can accelerate quickly to avoid danger.

Bike Handling

Make wider arcs and avoid leaning through corners to prevent scraping your pedals on the ground as you pedal through a turn. To reduce the impact of rough roads and debris on your bike and yourself, hover an inch above the saddle and absorb the impact with your knees.

Stopping

You can stop a fixed gear bike without a brake by "locking up" the rear wheel and skidding to a stop. To do this, press down on the back pedal (or "pedal backward") so that the rear wheel can't spin. You can balance at a standstill without removing your feet from the pedals (called a "track stand") by applying even downward pressure to both the front and back pedals. Track stands avoid the hassle of repositioning the pedals to the top of the pedal stroke and "clipping in" when it is time to begin rolling again. To reposition the pedals when stopped, lift the rear wheel off the ground and use one foot to spin the pedals to the desired starting position.

Safety

Although it is possible to ride a fixie without a brake, it is very dangerous to do so on the road. Install a front brake so you can stop short in an emergency.
Make sure your frame uses horizontal dropouts (the groove into which the rear axle is seated). This allows you to adjust the chain tension properly and prevents the wheel from coming off the bike altogether during a skid.
Always wear shorts or tight pants on a fixed gear bike. Loose pant legs can become tangled in the chain and cause a crash or injury.
Use toe clips or clip-in ("clipless") pedals to secure your feet to the pedals. If your feet come off during a fast descent, the pedals could smack into your legs and cause severe injury.
Reaction time can be slowed on a fixed gear bike, so look up the road to anticipate obstacles.

(livestrong)

Be Safer Cycling To Work Tips

2011-05-01T01:20:00.000-07:00

While good cycling technique is a vital part of staying safe on the roads, it isn't the only answer. We asked three cycling advocates what they felt should be done to improve cyclist safety. Here 8 tips for safer cycling.

1 Learn the skills
Cycling training today isn’t aimed solely at kids. National Standards training is a three-tier programme covering everything from basic bike control to complicated urban journeys. To find out more or locate an instructor, see www.ctc.org.uk/cycletraining. The bible for safe, skilled cycling is John Franklin’s Cyclecraft (£13, www.tso.co.uk).

2 Get out of the gutter
You should always be at least 50cm from the kerb, and sometimes further. Positioning yourself in the middle of the lane is called ‘the primary position’ or ‘taking the lane’. It makes you more visible and forces cars to overtake properly or wait until it is safe to do so.

3 Eyeball drivers
Eye contact with a driver lets you know they have seen you. Look purposefully right at them. Have they clocked you? Good. There’ll be no “sorry, mate, I didn’t see you” moment. It’s useful for almost any manoeuvre, whether you’re turning right or approaching a junction.

4 Signal like you mean it
Signalling broadcasts your intentions to other road users. You’re not asking their permission; you are telling them unambiguously where you’re going. Check over your shoulder early so you can change position smoothly and predictably. If there’s following traffic, eyeball the lead driver, signal clearly and begin your manoeuvre.
Highway Code rule 62 says “you may feel safer keeping to the left”. Rubbish, you won’t. You’re less visible to traffic on or entering the roundabout. Take your lane as you approach. Take it on the roundabout too, even if you’re going left. Check, signal, then peel off the roundabout at your exit.

6 Traffic light tactics
Don’t jump red lights. It infuriates drivers and you may get T-boned by someone accelerating for an amber. Wait, behind the advance stop line if there is one, and not in the gutter. Take your lane. That way nothing can squeeze dangerously past or left hook you.

7 Filter tips
Overtaking on the right is best for visibility. Only filter up the inside if the traffic is stationary – watch for doors opening and pedestrians crossing – or moving at walking pace. Never go up the inside of a long vehicle: you could die. Once you’re past, get back in your lane.

8 Safer slip roads
Where the slip road joins your road: cross carefully over to the slip road at the hatch markings before the slip road joins the main road, stopping if necessary, then follow the slip road onto the main road. At an exit slip road: take the slip road until you can carefully rejoin the main road at the hatch markings.

(br)

Keep Your Folding Bike In Maximum Performance

2011-05-01T00:52:00.000-07:00

To keep your folding bike operating at maximum efficiency, it’s important to follow a few basic maintenance procedures that will keep you riding safely and help extend your folding bike’s lifespan.

Invest in a quality brand of bike chain lubricant and use it regularly. Before setting out on every ride, follow a check list to see that the tires are properly inflated, the latches and releases are secured and the brake system is functioning. Look on the tire’s sidewall to find the proper inflation pressure level. Hand tighten any quick release levers but avoid over-tightening them with a wrench. Keep the bike in covered and dry storage conditions when it isn’t being ridden to prevent rust and deterioration. Keep a soft cotton cloth handy in order to wipe away any moisture that has accumulated after a ride and be sure to dry the bike completely after riding in rain or snow. Never put a wet bike into storage.

Whenever you need to adjust the brakes, change the tires or perform any other repair function, invest in a repair bike stand where you can hang your folding bike. This allows you to have both hands free to work on the bike during basic maintenance or repair procedures. Never place more weight onto a bike than is recommended by the manufacturuer. After each ride, do a quick visual check to see if there is any damage to the bike’s frame, release levers or wheel assembly.

Keeping up with small maintenance procedures on your folding bike will prevent them from turning into major repair jobs and keep you safe while cycling.

Best Mountain Bike for Kids

2011-04-27T01:21:00.000-07:00

Once your children are good and stable on two wheels and want a “proper bike with gears”, go for one of the Hotrock series by Specialized. These mini-mountain bikes are great all-rounders and will last for years. As well as being superbly built, they also look the business, which is getting important when you're five or six.

The Hotrock series comes in boys' and girls' versions and several sizes: 20-inch wheels for five to seven-year-olds and 24-inch wheels for seven to 12-year-olds. There is also a single-speed 16-incher if you have a three to five-year-old who really can’t stand to be left out.

All the Specialized Hotrocks are good and will take whatever is thrown at them. My kids have the basic 20 and 24-inch models and use them daily going to and from school, scrambling on mud tracks in the park and practising wheelies and jumps.

All the components are of the same quality you would expect to find on a basic adult’s mountain bike and they have been scaled-down and fitted with real care. Crucially, the powerful ‘V’ breaks can be easily adjusted to suit very small hands – a major safety problem with some bikes in this category.
Robust, Safe and Cool
Childrens Bikes - Specialized Hotrock | MediumThe gears on the Specialized Hotrocks are good too and don’t need constant adjusting. The 20-inch version (left and below) has five speeds (ideal for the age group), while 24-incher (top) comes with the full 21 - a bit much really but to kids, gears mean status!

On both bikes, the gears are changed by twisting the handlebar grips, which most experts say is the safest and most intuitive method for young children. The Hotrocks also come with good quality front suspension on the forks – great for jumps etc.

As one enthusiastic consumer on an American bike site puts it: “This bike rocks! Ya, I am a kid but I have done up to 5 foot drops on this bike . . . I use it for dirt jumps, slalom racing, down hill, urban assult and big drops. You just can't break this bike!”
Great Reviews
Childrens Bikes - Specialized Hotrock | MediumAll reviews of the Specialized Hotrocks I’ve seen say much the same, albeit in more measured terms. The only drawback they point up is that the Hotrocks can be bit heavy for smaller children. For this reason it's best not to choose one that's too big to start with.

Finally, if money's no object, Specialized offer two premium Hotrock models in the 24-inch frame size: the Hotrock A1 FS and the Hotrock A1 FSR. Both these bikes are more expensive than the basic model but come with lighter frames and very swish components. The FSR also has the addition of rear suspension.

They sound tempting, I know, but my advice would be to stick with the basic models unless your kids are planning to turn professional sometime soon.

(ps)

Cycling Breathing Technique

2011-04-27T01:12:00.000-07:00

A 2001 study of competitive cyclists conducted at the Unversity of Wisconsin and published in "Respiratory Physiology" found that respiratory training can improve endurance exercise performance. Another study, conducted at the University of Arizona and published in "BMC Physiology" in 2004, found that endurance training of respiratory muscles improved cycling performance in young, fit cyclists. Cyclists who don't pay attention to their breathing are prone to push themselves too hard and wind up gasping for air, but certain breathing techniques can help cyclists prevent that from happening while boosting performance.

Adapted Basic Breathing Technique

One aerobic breathing technique is to breathe in through the nose and out through the mouth. For cyclists, a slight adaptation of this technique may be even more beneficial. Inhale through both your nose and mouth at the same time and then exhale through only your mouth. This helps fuel the bloodstream with an even greater supply of oxygen than inhaling through the nose alone. It is particularly helpful on higher intensity courses, though it also improves general cycling all around.

Diaphragmatic Breathing

Chest breathing only inflates the upper lobes of the lungs. Diaphragmatic breathing, or consciously breathing into the abdomen, inflates the lower lobes as well. It also activates the parasympathetic nervous system, which helps control stress and promote relaxation. Diaphragmatic breathing is particularly helpful when climbing steep slopes.

Focus On The Exhale

Also helpful for climbing is to focus more on the exhale than the inhale, as a forceful exhale leads to a quicker and fuller natural inhale that takes in a smaller proportion of carbon dioxide to oxygen. Beware of exhaling too sharply in too rapid a succession as it could lead to hyperventilating.

PEEP Breathing

During periods of particularly increased demand, such as while climbing a steep hill or during a rough part of a course, many cyclists make use of a technique called "positive end-expiratory pressure" breathing, to increase oxygen uptake in the blood. To do this, either purse your lips or fill your cheeks slightly with air as you exhale. This slightly increased resistance to airflow helps increase pressure in the lungs and keep the alveoli, or the air sacs where oxygen and carbon dioxide are exchanged, more inflated.

Hypoxic Breathing

Hypoxic breathing is a training technique typically practiced while seated off the cycle that is used to improve a cyclist's anaerobic threshold. Your anaerobic threshold is the point at which breathing becomes ragged and inefficient. This intentionally shallow breathing technique -- hypoxic meaning "with inadequate oxygen" -- simulates riding at higher altitudes by limiting your oxygen intake. With time, this exercise prods the body to produce more red blood cells, which carry oxygen to the muscles. Increased red blood cell count leads to increased oxygen utilization, making breathing more efficient at normal altitude levels.

(ls)

How To Choose Mountain Bike Tires

2011-04-23T01:02:00.000-07:00

More so than any other single component, the tires you put on a mountain bike can affect the ride, handling, and grip on the trail. Therefore choosing the right tire (or combination of tires) for your bike is important to getting everything out of your bike that you can and feeling confident on the trail. If you have ever walked into a bike store and looked at the selection of tires and been overwhelmed then you are not alone. A good idea at that point would be to ask the sales rep at the bike shop for advice but a better solution is to know what you want before you even go into the store. To get to that point you need to know a few things.

1: What type of riding do you frequently do?
2: What are the conditions on the trails you frequent?
3: Is speed more important or grip?
4: Will you ride these tires on the pavement more then on the trail?

So let’s get started. Do you more often ride on roller coaster type single track and fire roads or do you put your bike on a chair lift and take it down Mammoth? Maybe you race and you will be looking for a racing tire. The answer to these questions determines what kind of tire you will be looking for and what characteristics are important for that type of riding. DH or downhill tires are beefy and made to take a pounding. Racing tires are designed to roll fast and save weight. The last category is for the all around tire that is the most commonly used. These try to stay light but don’t sacrifice grip or durability.

The next thing to look at is how the dirt is where you ride. Is it moist hardpack or is it sand on top of hardpack? Or maybe it is muddy and wet all the time? Finally it could be basically described as a rock garden with rocks jutting out of the ground and smooth mesa like surfaces you have to ride over. First of all I do not advise riding in muddy conditions as it excessively wears on the trail and it is generally not so much fun. However if you cannot avoid it then you will need tires which shed mud well as opposed to holding onto it like some sort of mud magnet thus turning the tires into slicks that will not grip anything. Tires with widely spaced knobs will do best here. If you ride on moist hardpack all the time then you can opt for a tire with short knobs and low rolling resistance. That way you can make the most of the awesome trail conditions. If you find yourself in rock gardens then having a durable tire that has a compound with a lot of grip will help you overcome the challenges of rocky terrain. Finally if you ride in sand over hardpack then you will need tires with at the very least deep knobs on the shoulders of the tire.

Next you have to decide if you want to go faster or feel more confident. If you are lacking confidence then a tire with a lot of grip for the trail conditions will help you out. Otherwise you might be concerned about rolling resistance which is the tires tendency to slow down because of tall knobs down the center of the tire which effectively turn the tire into some weird geometric shape instead of a circle.

Lastly will you frequent the urban jungle more then the backwoods? If you ride on paved bike paths with your mountain bike then you want a tire which has low rolling resistance and also a harder compound so that the tire will last longer even though it is being ridden on the abrasive pavement. You can even go so far as to buy slicks for your mountain bike but just know that those slicks will be useless on anything besides a paved surface.

Now that you have narrowed down what you are looking for in a tire here are some other things to consider. No one tire is perfect for every part of a given ride. In fact you may want to use a different tire in the front then in the rear as cornering grip is important in the front but not as much in the rear. Things like the type of tire compound and the height of the knobs and the tire pressure you run can have great effects on your ride. It is generally the rule that on rough terrain you want lower tire pressure. This allows the tires to deform over the terrain. However as speed increases you actually get more grip with higher tire pressure. This is because with too low pressure your tire will wobble and deform strangely at speed. Lower pressure means less rebound and high pressure usually means more rebound. If your front tire keeps skipping off obstacles then look at your tire pressure before you blame your suspension fork. Lower pressure means more flats so there is a trade-off there. One solution to this is to go tubeless. You can buy UST rims and tires and run with no tubes. Then you can run lower air pressure more safely. This route is expensive though. The other option is to use one of the systems of glue/sealant to run tubeless. It is really a matter of preference and seeing if this works for you.

So now you know what to look for in a tire. The curve ball of the whole thing is that you may find the tire you think is best for you and then find out you just don’t like it. For instance I am running tires with short and fast knobs down the middle and tall knobs on the side with a dual tread compound of harder in the center and soft and sticky on the shoulder. I expected this to be the perfect tire for me but as with anything I found the tire, while great, has pros and cons. Just stick it out and you will find the right tire for you.

(ae)

Choose Helmet Types In Different Track Condition

2011-04-21T21:48:00.000-07:00

You should wear a helmet every time you ride. In many states helmets are mandatory for children under a certain age, usually 14 years old. Be sure that your helmet fits comfortably and correctly, and check that it is certified for impact protection.

Helmet Types

Bike helmets are available in four styles: sport, road, BMX and mountain bike. All are designed to be light, comfortable and protect against impact.

Sport Helmets

Are good for all-around use

Usually value-priced

Road Cycling Helmets

These helmets are designed to be as lightweight as possible

Usually the construction consists of a plastic shell, foam padding and a chin strap

These helmets often include large vents for air circulation and to cut down on weight

BMX Helmets

These helmets tend to offer more coverage around the back and sides of the head and sometimes include face protection

Generally BMX helmets are larger and strong than cycling helmets

These helmets are intended for use on rough terrain

Mountain Bike Helmets

Mountain bike helmets offer maximum protection during off-road use.

(dunhams)

Cycling Equipment For Beginner

2011-04-21T21:26:00.000-07:00

Cycling, more than many other sports, is equipment-centric. I am of the minimalist school – you don’t need a host of fancy gear to get started. Add those later.

What’s the minimum gear needed? Here’s my list:

Helmet. Don’t ever ride without one. It can mean the difference between a bad headache and being a vegetable. Make sure it fits well (see this guide for tips on that, along with other equipment needed to get started).

Water bottle. Get one with a cage that attaches to your bike. Regular bottles don’t fit in this cage, btw. An alternative is a hydration backpack. You really only need hydration tools once you start cycling beyond an hour, but it’s good to have just in case.

Pump. A portable pump that you attach to the bike is necessary, in case you get a flat or a slow leak. You don’t want to be walking your bike back home. A floor pump is good to have at home, too, for easier pumping, but isn’t absolutely necessary.

Repair kit. A simple repair kit would include a patch kit, a spare inner tube, 2 tire levers, a multi-tool for bikes, all in a small bag that attaches to the bike.

Other stuff you could get later:

Gloves. I actually have a pair of these, and you could consider them essential. They absorb shock from the handles (cycling gloves are padded), but more importantly, if you crash, your palms are protected.

Bike computer. This attaches to the bike (no, they don’t have it in Linux or Mac flavors) and tells you how far you’ve gone, how fast you’re going, your RPMs, and all other kinds of good info. Very useful, but not absolutely necessary. I don’t have one at this point, but it’s on my to-buy list.

Gel-padded seat. For beginners, riding on a hard cycling seat can be very uncomfortable. This gel padding has saved me a bit of pain. Experienced riders tell me that you get used to it after awhile, and I have, to some degree.

Glasses. To some, these are a must. I haven’t gotten them yet, but they block bugs and other debris from hitting you in the eyes. Hasn’t been a problem for me yet, but then I don’t go that fast!

Shoes/pedals. The most efficient way of peddling is if you are using your up-stroke as well, not just your down-stroke (pulling the pedals up and pushing them down). To do this, of course, you either need cage pedals to put your shoes in, or the kind of pedals that lock into your cycling shoes. You’d also need special shoes for that, of course. I plan to get these some time, but haven’t gotten to it yet.

Lights. These are a must if you ride when it begins to get dark. I don’t do that out of safety concerns.

Racks. Important if you want to transport anything. There are all kinds of racks and panniers (cycling bags). Awesome for touring or commuting.

There are, of course, a ton of other equipment out there. But you don’t need them in the beginning.

(zhabits)

How to Choose Bicycle for Women

2011-04-13T20:25:00.000-07:00

Women generally have longer legs and shorter torsos than men. several bike manufacturer’s build women’s specific road bikes with the feminine anatomy in mind. this text can teach you ways to settle on a women’s specific road bike.

1. See your budget.

Women’s specific road bikes are most ordinarily out there in aluminum or carbon frames. though aluminum weighs a little over carbon, if you’ve got a decent budget, select a bikes with an aluminum frame. Aluminum frame road bikes begin at around $600, whereas prime of the road carbon frame bikes will price thousands of bucks. Steel, titanium and even bamboo bike frames are out there, however aluminum and carbon are a lot of commonly out there.

2. Specify the brand of bike you want.

First, determine that bike makers create women’s specific road bikes. Trek, Cannondale and Terry Bicycles are simply a couple of samples of corporations that create women’s specific bikes. Also, some makers use the designation WSD within the model name, this stands for women’s specific style.

3. Find a local online bike search.

Visit every bike makers web site to seek out out that bike outlets in your space carry the brands of bikes you’re fascinated by observing.

4. Get a bike fit.

Your native bike search are ready to take numerous measurements to work out what size bike frame you must order. girls usually have longer legs, shorter torsos, shorter arms, wider pelvis, smaller hands and narrower shoulders compared to a person of comparable height. A women’s specific bike can take of these variations into thought.

5. Order your bike.

Most outlets will not have the actual size or model of bikes that you simply wish in stock. It will take anywhere from a couple of days to a couple of months to induce the bike in stock. The bike search can decision their manufacturer’s representative to examine if they will realize an already engineered bike that may be sent to the bike search. Otherwise, the bike search can need to place an order through the manufacturer’s representative to possess the bike engineered for you.

Gears For Mountian Bike

2011-04-13T20:07:00.000-07:00

Gears are the components that define the evolution of the mountain bike. Don’t believe us? Take a look back in history, to Marin County, California where it all began. The legendary Repack started as a downhill race for beach cruisers in 1976, and the riders used a truck to get them to the top. Later that year, over in Colorado, those same pioneers pushed their klunkers around the first Pearl Pass Tour to Aspen.

The breakthrough that turned klunkers into mountain bikes was bodging road bike derailleurs onto them, enabling the bikes to be pedalled up the hills too. In some ways, not a great deal has changed since - levers on the bars move some dangly bits on the frame. But right now, there’s a lot going on in the world of bike transmissions, with more options than ever before and even the odd challenge to the dominance of the derailleur. Join us as we sink out teeth into the world of gears...

Why use gears?

The ability of riders to put out maximum torque (crudely put: how hard you can push the pedals around) at low revs means that while multiple gear ratios are useful, they’re not essential. It’s not just modern-day singlespeed riders who demonstrate the truth of that, either. The Tour de France ran for 34 years before derailleurs were first used, although riders could turn their rear wheels around to use a different-sized sprocket on the other side.
However, if you’re a mere mortal, riding up big hills without gears means you either need strong legs and lungs, a high pain threshold, or a combination of the two. Once lots of gears became available, they were soon put into widespread use – no one’s winning races with one or two gears any more, unless it’s a race specifically for gear-deficient bikes. This is because gears allow you to make the most of your muscles.
You need a certain amount of power to move your bike – how much depends on how fast you want to go, what you and your bike weigh and the gradient you’re riding on. Power is a function of your torque and pedalling speed (or cadence) – to generate power you can either pedal slowly but push hard, or pedal quickly and push less hard. Thanks to the way your muscles work, you can maintain fast, easy pedalling for much longer than slow, hard pedalling.
A choice of gears enables you maintain a fairly constant cadence across a wide range of speeds and inclines. On a singlespeed, to go twice as fast, you need to pedal twice as fast, and it’s easy to run into muscle fatigue (or simple lack of strength) problems at one end of the speed range and the possibility of your legs flying off at the hips at the other.

Gear anatomy

Cassette: The stack of sprockets that acts as the bike’s gearbox. Small sprockets provide higher gears, and big ones result in lower gears. While 9-speed cassettes are the current standard, SRAM’s flagship XX delivers 10 and pretty much everything will be 10-speed for 2011.

Rear derailleur: Also known as a rear mech, this assemblage of links, pivots, jockey wheels and springs does two jobs. Firstly, it moves the chain between different cassette sprockets in response to the shifters. Secondly, it takes up slack chain as the chainring and sprocket sizes vary.

Front derailleur: This is attached to the seat tube with a wraparound clamp or bolted directly to a mount on the frame. Also known as a front mech, its cage shunts the chain across the chainrings.

Chainrings: Chainrings alter the range offered by the rear sprockets, a bit like the transfer box in a Land Rover. The middle ring’s for singletrack andmellow climbs, the inner (or granny) ring is for the grunty stuff, and the outer ring’s for going fast. Three is the current standard, but twin-ring set-ups are becoming popular.

Chain: The chain is pulled around by the chainrings and pulls the sprockets around to turn the wheel, thus converting your efforts into forward motion. It has to cope with high tension as well as being able to deflect sideways to change gear.

Shifters: Your point of contact with the transmission. The shifters pull cables to move the derailleurs. Twin-lever triggers (one for up, one for down) are the most popular choice, such as Shimano’s Rapidfire, but you’ll also find twist shifters, such as Grip Shift, and integrated brake lever/shifters.

How derailleurs work
Derailleurs, also called mechs, have been with us for a long time. Early models of rear mech, which have long arms pivoting backwards from the chainstay, are hardly recognisable as derailleurs now. But by the late 1930s, the familiar parallelogram design mounted near the rear axle had arrived. One end of the parallelogram linkage is attached to the frame, the other to a cage with two jockey wheels in it.
The cage is sprung to allow it to take up chain slack, which results from using the same length chain on different chainring/sprocket combinations. The linkage moves the cage in and out, pushing the chain onto adjacent sprockets. The shifter cable pulls the derailleur one way, acting against a spring that pulls it back when the tension is released.

This 1950’s Campagnolo ‘Gran Sport’ road bike rear mech shows how things have advanced!
Early derailleurs had the linkage moving horizontally, meaning that the distance between the upper jockey wheel and the sprocket got bigger as you shifted to smaller sprockets. That made for inconsistent shifting across the sprockets, but it took until 1964 for SunTour to realise that it would make more sense for the linkage to be tilted to allow the upper jockey to remain a more constant distance from the sprockets.
That simple development allowed SunTour to dominate bike transmission production for 20 years until its slant parallelogram patent ran out, at which point everyone else started using it, including previous also-rans Shimano.
Shifter ergonomics
Early shifters were simple levers with friction devices to keep them in place. Then indexing came along and the levers got distinct clicks, providing helpful feedback. Next, the simple lever evolved into a pair of thumb levers, or a twisting barrel on the bar. Then one of the levers became a finger trigger, until double thumb levers were reintroduced. Finally, the finger trigger could also be pressed with a thumb. Or the shifter was married to the brake lever and you moved it up and down to change gear.

Dual lever gear shifters like this Shimano SLX unit are popular today
These days, the field of shifters has settled down somewhat. The underbar trigger is the dominant design, although integrated Dual Control brake levers and twist shifters still have niche appeal. Having settled on a shifter design, you’re left with some set-up options. Dual Control’s double-duty brake levers let you choose how far along the bar they’re set and at what angle, but that’s about it.
Twist shift users can opt for different length fixed grips, setting their hands closer together or further away from each other. Triggers can be set at different positions or angles relative to the brakes, and some models can be fitted inboard or outboard of the levers too. Test and see which set-up works best for you.

Twist shifters used to be big, but they’re a niche product now
Compatibility
Most bikes come with a mish-mash of components from different groupsets, but not all parts will work together. There’s no problem with chains or cassettes – all 9-speed cassettes have the same sprocket spacing, so you can drop an SRAM one into an otherwise Shimano set-up (or vice versa). You can also use 9-speed derailleurs with 8- or 7-speed cassettes as long as you’re using a shifter with the correct indexing set-up. The only real no-no is mixing SRAM and Shimano shifters and rear derailleurs. Shimano uses a 2:1 actuation ratio (two units of cable pull give one unit of derailleur movement), while SRAM uses 1:1, so they won’t work together. SRAM does sell Shimano-compatible versions of its trigger and twist shifters, though.
Planetary gears explained (Truvativ HammerSchmidt and hub gears)
Planetary gear systems are a way of packing gears into a small space, and so are rather handy for bicycles. A planetary gear comprises a ‘sun’ gear in the middle, a ‘ring’ gear around the outside and a number of equally sized ‘planet’ gears connecting the two. Depending which component is held still and which turns, the parts will move at different speeds.
In a Truvativ Hammerschmidt crank, the crank arm is attached to the smaller planet gears via what look like chainring bolts. The actual chainring is driven from the ring gear, while the central sun gear is attached to the frame and can’t rotate. In the low gear, the whole lot is locked up so the chainring and crank spin together. Unlocked, the chainring is driven round 1.6 times every time the crank rotates, providing the ‘overdrive’ gear.

Truvativ's HammerSchmidt is an enclosed planetary system that provides two modes – normal and the 1:1.6 overdrive for trail mashing

You can see the central ‘sun’ gear, the ‘ring’ and the four tiny ‘planets’
In a hub gear, the sprocket is attached to the sun gear and the ring gear is on the inside of the hub shell. To get more gear ratios, a whole bunch of different sun/planet combinations are mounted side by side, with spring-loaded clutches to engage different ones. The Rohloff Speedhub’s 14 gears are achieved with a couple of planetary gears giving seven ratio options, plus another planetary gear that multiplies up those seven to yield the full 14.

Rohloff's hub gear uses a planetary system to provide 14 distinct, evenly spaced gears

The rather confusing innards of a Speedhub

Range, steps and options

Your gear preference all depends on your strength, favoured cadence and how fast or steep you plan to ride. If you’re scaling mountain passes then descending the other side as fast as possible, you need as wide a range of gears as you can muster. But as there are only so many different gears you can have and the wider the range you want, the bigger the jump between one gear and the next will be.
Racers like close ratios so they can find just the right gear for maximum efficiency, and they’re willing to sacrifice range for it. But as bikes have sprouted ever larger numbers of gears, this tradeoff becomes less acute; if you’ve got more gears to cover the range, they’ll sit closer together. On a typical mountain bike, one gear is about 10 percent higher or lower than the next, and given the variability of terrain there’s not an awful lot of justification for going closer than that.
If your gears are too closely spaced, you end up having to shift several at a time in response to changes of incline in the trail. The conventional triple chainring setup leads to three overlapping ranges of gears and you’ll be able to find a couple of different chainring/sprocket combinations that deliver the same overall gear ratio.

The bigger the range of gears you want, the larger the difference between each gear becomes
So while you may have 30 gears on paper, depending on your exact choice of chainrings and cassette, that might mean you only have 18 or so unique ratios. That’s the thinking behind Rohloff’s 14-speed hub – every gear is different, and they’re all equally spaced. The jumps between them are a little bigger than between adjacent cassette sprockets, though.
You may want to deliberately limit your gear options for various reasons. Twin-ring setups are popular with all-mountain riders doing without an outer chainring for added ground clearance and less chain flapping around. At the other other end of the spectrum, cross-country racers may opt to do without an inner ring for more reliable front shifting.
Trail riders are starting to experiment with 1x9 setups, using a middle-size chainring and wide-range cassette for a simple solution that offers most of the gears you’ll ever need. Or there’s the even simpler singlespeed option, which can be a simple, reliable and (on the right trails) rewarding setup.

Some riders choose to go singlespeed for the ultimate in simple reliability
Setup comparisons
There are plenty of gearing options available off the shelf. The chart you’ll find below shows the gear ranges offered by five common setups. A gear ratio of one means one revolution of the wheel for every revolution of the cranks or direct drive. Anything below that is a very low gear. The left-hand end of each bar is the lowest gear, the right-hand end represents the highest.
All these ranges can be tweaked by choosing different parts. For the sake of comparison, we’ll say the 27-speed setup is the common 22/32/42T chainset and 11-32T cassette. Twin and bash is the all-mountain/freeride-friendly 22/36T double chainset with a bashguard instead of a big chainring and a 11-34T cassette. SRAM XX is a race-oriented 28/42T chainset and has a 11-36T 10-speed cassette. Finally, the Rohloff and Alfine hub gears can be used with a wide variety of chainrings and sprockets, and different ones will shift the bars left or right. The illustration here assumes a 40/18T for the Rohloff and a 32/18T for the Alfine.

Mechanical efficiency
Measurements have been made of bicycle drivetrain efficiency and the results are quite impressive. In a clean lab, a bike transmission can be almost 99 percent efficient – just one percent of the power put in at the pedals fails to make it to the back wheel. That’s amazing for a mechanism that’s remained fundamentally unchanged for about 130 years.
You’re not likely to be getting 99 percent efficiency out in the real world, though, and some of the factors that affect efficiency aren’t immediately obvious. The main one turns out to be sprocket and chainring size, with bigger ones being significantly more efficient. For a given chainring size, you might see 99 percent efficiency with a 21-tooth sprocket but only 95 percent with an 11-tooth sprocket.
That’s quite a difference, suggesting that if you can achieve the same gear ratio using a bigger sprocket (42/21T instead of 32/16T, for example) then you’ll be pedalling more efficiently. Surprisingly, lab tests show there’s hardly any difference in measured efficiency if the chainring and sprocket are offset sideways, contradicting the common dictum that extreme crossover gears like big chainring/big sprocket should be avoided.
Lubricating the chain doesn’t seem to make much difference in the lab either. But there’s a world of difference between a clean lab with a simple run of chain between two sprockets and the grubby outdoors with derailleurs and worn parts. Extreme crossovers tend to be noisy, which is always a bad sign, and tend to stretch the chain. And as soon as there’s dirt, grit and water around, lubrication is clearly a good idea.

You’re not likely to be getting 99 percent efficiency out in the real world

What does the future hold?

Ten-speed cassettes are no longer the preserve of the rich or the sponsored. SRAM's 2/3x10 X7 groupset is already available and the new 3x10 Shimano Deore is set to be released in June. We’re expecting 2011 to be something of a watershed year for hub gears, too. Shimano’s Alfine is getting a bump to 11-speed with a gear range equivalent to that of an 11-45 cassette. It can’t quite match Rohloff’s derailleur-rivalling range, but it’s likely to be far cheaper.
Then there are systems that have been bubbling away for years. Centrally mounted gearboxes have weight distribution and suspension benefits but add complexity. Toothed belt drives are low maintenance, clean and quiet but require high tension hub gears (or a single gear) and frames with gaps for fitting them. It seems likely that chain drives and derailleurs will dominate the mountain bike market for some time to come.

Gearbox bikes have been in development for several years now
However, the Achilles’ heel of current gears is that they use a mechanism that dangles off the bike waiting to be mashed by rocks Looking further ahead, a replacement must surely be the next big advance. Conventional hub gears are too heavy and inefficient for use outside of specialist applications, but continuously variable transmission (CVT) might be the answer.
CVT systems promise to free us from the constraints of choosing gears by giving us as many as we like across a range, with instant shifting. Current CVT systems are too heavy for performance use but there are some determined engineers out there working to fix that. Finally, Shimano’s electronic transmission for road bikes (Dura-Ace Di2) has proven hardy enough to stand the almost off-road conditions of the Paris-Roubaix race. Will we see it on mountain bikes one day? We already have.

Shimano's Dura-Ace Di2 road groupset offers electronic shifting

Shimano Fixie Gear

2011-03-27T10:22:00.000-07:00

Shimano recently unveiled a slew of new components to the global cycling press, and the revamped Ultegra 6700 road group, with all its sexy forged parts (and even more appealing price point) hogging all the attention.

But below the fold, Shimano also announced the latest iteration of its humble Deore group—the most affordable ‘branded’ nine-speed components group in Shimano’s mountain bike lineup. You’ve probably never fogged up a display case window lusting after the latest Deore kit—but if you’ve been riding for a while you’ve probably bought a Deore derailleur or a shifter pod as a replacement part.

With the introduction of the 2010 Deore group, however, Shimano is looking to up the ante. Witness a redesigned two-piece brake caliper that uses the same pads as its pricier siblings. The levers also got a makeover, and although they lack Servo-Wave action of XT and SLX—which works in two stages to provide great rotor clearance and still chomp down with authority when called to action—the new Deore levers benefit from a radial master cylinder design, a revised lever blade to accommodate both one- and two-fingered brakers, and which can be fine-tuned for reach preference with an easy access dial.

“They’re way smaller, they’re lighter, they work better and they bleed better,” says Shimano PR honch Devin Walton. “And the fact the calipers use the same shape brake pads as all the other brakes in the lineup opens up some more doors in terms of what you can do with the Deore platform.”

To get down to brass tacks and talk about what sort of power we can expect from the new Deore brakes, we caught up with Shimano mountain bike product manager Matt Robertson, who said that Deore’s power jumps 5 percent, and is on par with two lesser-known brakes, Shimano’s M575 and M486 models.

To put that in perspective, Roberston elaborated on how Shimano looks at power, which starts with defining a baseline.

“Baseline is the equivalent power of earlier XT M755 and M765 and the original Saint M800,” Robertson said. “That was great then, but today’s bikes and riders need a little more. Our XC stuff is now rated 105 to 110 percent of base. Our trail stuff delivers
120-125 percent and we have big power available with Saint at 150 percent. To put these numbers in context, consider that changing rotor size results in a power gain or loss of 15 percent.”

Shimano took the occasion of its Ultegra and Deore release to debut two more components—an SLX 15-millimeter hub, to work with 15-millimeter thru axle forks from Fox, Marzocchi and DT-Swiss; as well as a 12-to-36-tooth cassette, aimed at the ever-growing 29er crowd.

With the introduction of more longer travel 29ers, such as Turner’s new Sultan, which specs a 120-millimeter fork, racier cassette ranges might not cut it for the pedal-up/pedal-down, all-mountain crowd.

The new HG61 36-tooth cassette doesn’t use an aluminum spider to support the gears like Shimano’s higher-end models, but its construction is a step-up from Shimano’s lowest-end offering, too. The new cassette will offer an affordable way for riders to try out the new gearing range, and is compatible with all of Shimano’s Shadow rear derailleurs.

SRAM is also reported to be working on a 36-tooth cassette option as part of its Double-X group, which is expected to hit the high-end of the MSRP spectrum. If 36-tooth cassettes gain popularity, look for Shimano to pony up and produce a version with a stiffer, longer-lasting aluminum carrier.

Final pricing and weight of the new Deore group is not yet available, but expect the figures to be the lowest and the highest, respectively, of Shimano’s mountain bike components catalog.

(bm)

Easton Haven Carbon For Fixie Wheelset

2011-03-27T09:59:00.000-07:00

All-mountain goes bulletproof
The use of composites in bicycle manufacturing is hardly a new idea; frame builders have been utilizing bonded carbon fiber tubes since the mid-1970s, and as carbon-composite technology advanced, wheels and components were quickly embraced by the skinny-tire world.
Composites also drew the attention of the weight-conscious XC crowd, but the high-impact nature of mountain bike riding—and perhaps the general perception that composites technology basically equates to black magic—slowed all-mountain and gravity-inspired mountain bikers’ demand for these incredibly lightweight parts. Yet incredible improvements in frame and suspension design have given rise to true all-mountain bikes that go uphill just as well as they go downhill. This, in turn, has opened the door to some super-sexy lightweight mountain bike goodies.

The first company to say its aluminum tubes comprised a world championship winning mountain bike (Juli Furtado’s 1990 Yeti), Easton was one of the pioneers of high performance aluminum, first entering the market in 1939. From lacrosse to baseball to hockey to cycling, the company has been involved in the development of new materials and methods since it was founded. The newest member of the impressive Easton Cycling lineup is the Haven carbon wheel set.

While Bike Magazine has never advocated forgoing even a few minutes of a day’s ride for the extra research it takes to keep up with true gear nerds, the carbon Haven warrants more than a casual glance.
From the beginning Easton knew that its experience building carbon road bike wheels would not necessarily translate to building good carbon mountain bike wheels, so the company entrusted the formulation of a new mountain-worthy composite to Sayeed Syed, who joined the company in 2009 as the lead composites engineer. Syed, whose background is in chemistry and defense ballistics (read: bulletproof protective gear) brought an extensive knowledge of impact-resistant composite materials to the project, resulting in a rim that can withstand much greater impact than its skinny-tire counterparts.

Easton starts with small-scale testing, which means they are able to evaluate the properties of specific material combinations in a lab before ever producing the first prototype. Simple as this may seem, the process virtually allowed Sayeed and his team to test the various composites for all-mountain worthiness before the first mold was even designed. Following this model, mechanical and composite engineers were able to work together to create their ideal wheel.
Easton is so confident they’ve come up with a winner that they’re offering a 2-year “no-questions-asked insurance policy” with each wheel set. That’s right, they’re calling it an insurance policy. By “no questions asked” Easton means that even if you plow your roof-rack-mounted, Haven-Carbon-equipped dream bike into the garage, they’ll happily send you another pair. The damage to your bike, rack, garage and car are on you, however.
The details:
Easton Haven Carbon Wheel Set
MSRP: $2300.00 USD The Haven Carbon is sold as a complete set only.
Available: Late summer 2010
Sizes: 26- and 29-inch, available in all current axle configurations
Weight: 610g front, 840g rear (without valve stem)
Spokes: Sapim double-butted (2.0/1.7/2.0) Same spoke length front and rear, drive and non-drive sides
Lacing pattern: Three-cross, front and rear
Rim width: 21 mm internal
Hubs: Easton M1 series

(bm)

Maxxis Tyre For Fixie

2011-03-27T09:54:00.000-07:00

Also available in a heavier wire-bead version, the Re-Fuse is cheaper than most of its rivals and comes in a rainbow selection of colours. London fixie riders will no doubt love it for that feature alone.

Puncture protection comes from a Kevlar composite belt under the tread, and what Maxxis call a ‘silkworm cap ply’ casing running bead to bead. This protection bows out the tyre, so it needs a toe-strap or two to hold the tyre to the rim when fitting.

The Re-Fuse still isn't as tough as the likes of Schwalbe's Durano Plus, particularly through the sidewalls – but then it is £17 cheaper. Rolling performance and grip are average.

Here Comes Fixie For You

2011-03-27T09:46:00.000-07:00

Big-city bike messengers have always been tragically cool and indifferent to fashion trends, because let's face it, not everyone can pull off Emo pants and 30-pound chains wrapped around the waist while riding a bike in New York City traffic.

But the influence messengers have had on bike spec the past five years has had a large impact on the bike industry as a whole, as seen in the halls of the Sands Convention Center during the recent Interbike trade show in Las Vegas.

Steel is still real, although aluminium and carbon are creeping into the scene. Price matters, but in a market where daily hard riding and equipment abuse rivals that of the pro peloton, durability and looks count more. Pioneers Bianchi ushered in the affordable and sexy chrome Pista, and now the same product manager is pulling the levers for Swobo, where fixies are becoming decidely understated in appearance. As Swobo's Sky Yaeger tells it, it's her job to listen to what the customers want, and they want a stark canvas onto which they can create a personal ride that reflects their station in life and among their bicycling brethren.

Kona

The chaps from Vancouver still believe steel is real, and have advanced the early concept of producing fixed-gear bikes for track racing into proper fixies for the road. The Kona Paddy Wagon has a longer wheelbase and room for larger diamter tyres, ideal for streets and commuting. The US$679 model includes all the necessities, plus braze-ons and fittings for mudguards and racks.

Fuji

For some, evil lurks around every alleyway in big cities at night, and at first glance it seems that we stumbled upon Satan's fixie itself with the Fuji League.

Delta CDrive

Belt drives made their debut at last year's Interbike, and with a heavy influx of fixed-gear and internally-geared bikes, it appears belt drives are a legitimate option to the century-old chain. We're curious about the life span of belts, though, and will be testing several bikes in the near future. Delta's CDrive brand is simple, clever and easy on the eyes for the monochromatic crowd.

Masi

With an Italian heritage like Masi's, it's a natural fit to offer several steel fixies. The California-based company has expanded its Speciale Fixed line for 2009.

Giant

Giant has been a private-label manufacturer for several top-name companies, so it's not surprising to see the Taiwan juggernaut expand its own line of fun fixies to include "retro" models from the 1970s and '80s.

Traitor

Hidden among the big boys at Interbike was upstart brand Traitor Cycles, highlighting its Pabst Blue Ribbon special fixie. Cars R Coffins own Hurl Everstone was lingering in their booth, licking his lips and chatting up the owners.

Raleigh

The British marquee has returned to its roots in a big way for 2009, expanding its steel offerings greatly. The American subsidiary is based in Seattle, a community steeped heavily in bicycle culture. The Raleigh Rush Hour has been up-specced for 2009, taking a nod from brands like Swobo with its subtle looks and lack of graphics.

Fixie Inc.

We've reported on these guys in the past because their bikes are smartly specced and a pleasure to look at. The aptly-named Black Jack was on display, looking every inch inspired by the Austro Daimler models made by Puch in the 1970s and '80s.

Felt

The folks at Felt cover all the bases, from Tour de France time trialling and track racing to urban cool and fixies like the Curbside. Talk a bout a cross between mad messenger experimentation and old-school BMX sensibility!

Velocity

The Australian rim makers have upped their game considerably the past two years, adding eye-popping graphics to suit virtually every need among fixed-gear riders looking to make a personal statement.

(br)

It's Time For Hand Made Bicycle Show

2011-03-27T09:22:00.000-07:00

Just as in years past, steel was the predominant material at this year's NAHBS thanks to its wide range of available sizes, shapes, alloys and gauges, the ease with which it can be manipulated, and the multiple ways in which it can be joined. Stainless alloys continue to grow in popularity, too, with Reynolds and Columbus increasing their inventory of sizes for their respective 953 and XCr alloys but also a newcomer to the scene, KVA.

According to KVA, a special heat treatment process lends greater ductility to the weld area (stainless tubes are usually seam-welded) than competitors' products, suggesting more flexibility in terms of bending and forming and better long-term durability, especially for TIG-welded frames. Builders we spoke to at NAHBS who were already using KVA tubing also cited the greater availability of bike-specific sizes and shapes.

Newcomers Bronto MTB Co hit the floor
Bronto are relatively new builders out of central Oregon specializing in steel hardtails. Included in the four-model range is the Bon 26in do-all cross-country rig, the Reverend geared 29er, the Willy singlespeed 29er, and finally the harder-hitting Paycheck designed around a longer-travel 140mm fork and with room for up to 26x2.5in tires.

All of Bronto's bikes share several key features, including True Temper OX Platinum tubing – with the exception of the forward section of the curved down tube – a 44mm-diameter head tube for use with straight or tapered steerer tubes, optional geared/singlespeed Paragon slider dropouts, and curved seat tubes on the 29ers that allow for shorter chainstays.
Bronto are also offering a slick-looking rigid fork called the Udo for 26in or 29in wheels, both with sleeve-reinforced upper legs, a segmented crown a la Fat Chance's old Big 1", straight-bladed chromoly legs, and stout hooded dropouts.

Don Walker does steel with a modern twist
With all that goes into planning something like NAHBS, it's a wonder that show director Don Walker had time to build much of anything, let alone pack his booth with finished rigs as he did yet again for this year's event.
One of the highlights for us was a bare road frameset that used some of the latest tech features: a true BB30-compatible bottom bracket shell, a semi-integrated seatmast and a 44mm-diameter head tube fitted with Chris King's latest mixed InSet and a full-carbon Columbus tapered fork. Finishing things off was a neat two-sided red, blue and black paintjob.

Sitting at the other end of the spectrum was Walker's decidedly traditional-looking keirin racer. Not only was it styled like the real thing, but Walker says every aspect of the build complies with official NJS technical guidelines, with many of the parts imported especially for the project such as the top tube protector, Soyo Gold Star tubulars with silk casings, and even the helmet that was hung over the bars.
Walker's area was expectedly filled with various track bikes – seeing as how that's his specialty – but one other project also occupied a healthy chunk of his time before the show: a steel road tandem. Built for a friend who lost his sight last year, Walker says he had just a single week to get the massive structure done.

Further complicating matters was the chosen fillet-brazed construction. Nevertheless, Walker got it done and, with the help of industry friends at Co-Motion, Rolf Prima, Fi'zi:k, Continental, FSA, Ritchey and SRAM, the bike was even fully built in time.
An assortment of quirky machines from Minnesota's Peacock Groove
Peacock Groove's Eric Noren made yet another return visit to NAHBS with an impressive collection of bikes, each with its own little quirks that set it apart from most other machines.
One glossy blue-and-white 26in hardtail was normal looking enough, what with its TIG-welded joints, standard double-diamond configuration and unicrown steel fork. The dice theme in the paint carried over to real dice that were threaded into brazed-on fittings at both the fork tips and signature Peacock Groove rear dropouts. Blinking LED lights inside the dice perhaps added to the gimmick factor a bit but they did their job – passers-by stopped and took a closer look.

Noren also showed off a few steel cyclo-cross bikes that looked fit for racing with plenty of tire clearance and suitable angles. One was thoroughly coated in metallic copper paint – including the Campagnolo Record group and alloy clincher rims – and fitted with front and rear disc brakes, while the other was a more sedate white affair with conventional cantilevers. Both included rack mounts front and rear for extra versatility, with the front ones being designed around randonneur-style mini-racks.
Finally there was the dual-purpose hardtail 29er/grocery getter – as long as your groceries consisted of nothing more than a six-pack of beer to fit into the dedicated bespoke front rack. Rather than use a curved seat tube, Noren instead carved out the backside of the straight tube to lend more clearance for the big 29in tires.

Six-Eleven's Aaron Dykstra – a new builder but with keen old-school style
Roanoke, Virginia-based builder Aaron Dykstra of Six-Eleven Bicycle Co has only been building for a couple of years but has studied under one of the greats of framebuilding: the legendary Koichi Yamaguchi of 3Rensho. Dykstra's bikes belie his relative lack of experience and have already earned him a "Best Track Bike" award at this year's NAHBS.
Dykstra won that award for a beautiful lugged steel machine built with KVA stainless tubing and vintage lugs and finished in a classic-looking black and red panel layout. Capping things off was a painted-to-match lugged steel stem.

More stainless steel was found in the polished lugs, fork crown and rear-entry horizontal dropouts of a two-tone green town bike built with Columbus SP steel tubing. S&S couplers make for easy breakdown for travel while the split seatstay allows the latest-generation Gates CenterTrack belt to pass through. The finishing touch was a one-piece steel bar and stem combination complete with extra struts to prevent excess flex.
YiPsan Bicycles – artisan looks with an engineering backbone
Hong Kong native Renold Yip earned his bachelor's degree in engineering in the UK but now builds some of the most creative bikes of NAHBS in Fort Collins, Colorado. One of the crowd favorites was a black-and-copper town bike with twin top tubes that took a quick detour at the seat tube to form the seatstays.

Other features include front and rear disc brakes, internal routing all around, a full complement of polished aluminum bits (including a polished Greenfield kickstand!) and custom front and rear racks. The front one in particular reflects Yip's mechanical chops with its modular design. The top extensions can be removed for use with lowrider bags and a small racktop pack, or installed to provide a more cargo-friendly shelf with lots of surface area. The rear rack sported gracefully curved stays with a fixed wooden deck.
Also decorating the YiPsan booth was a yellow randonneur bike with color-contrast painted fenders and a matching lugged steel stem plus Yip's take on a go-anywhere mountain bike complete with a monstrous Surly snowbike front tire.

Countless other steel builders were on hand that we haven't yet mentioned and while we can't quite fit everyone into this article, feel free to enjoy the accompanying image gallery from our continuing coverage. Also, stay tuned for one final installment before we call this year's NAHBS a wrap.

(br)

CINELLI ROAD BIKES 2011

2011-02-22T08:15:00.000-08:00

Cinelli’s 2011 lineup sees a few model upgrades like the Best Of, above, some spec updates and the entirely new mid-range Saetta lineup.

The Pro Best Of frame up top isn’t their lightest bike, but it’s their premier example of carbon and bike building technology. It’s a sloping geometry frame built with co-curing, hand-wrapped Columbus XLR8R Plus 3K twill carbon fibers and tubes.
The rear triangle has been redesigned to drop weight, and the Best Of now sports a tapered head tube. Altogether, the frame dropped 200g from the prior year and now comes in at 1050g (Medium w/ uncut seatmast).

It gets a Columbus Genius tapered carbon fork (390g), Pressfit BB30 and integrated seatmast with a new carbon wedge system to mount the seat clamp. It’s available in two colorways, including the black up above as a frameset for $3,700. Or, you can break the bank and special order the full Shimano Di2 bike above with carbon Dura-Ace wheels, color-matched carbon stem and bar for a mere $14,000.

Check the rest after the break…

(bru)

New : Vuelo Velo Bike

2011-02-18T08:48:00.000-08:00

Vuelo Velo are a tiny bicycle company based in Sydney, Australia who specialize in custom titanium. Their frames are built by Black Sheep Cycles in Fort Collins, Colorado, and the designs are definitely unique, with a strong emphasis on curved tubes and ultra-short rear ends.

The latest model, the Vuelo 8, continues that trend but adds on a slickly integrated Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 electronic groupset complete with an internal battery setup designed by long-time carbon builder Craig Calfee. Its seat tube is less curved than Vuelo Velo's more radical fixed-gear design but still allows for very short chainstays – at 388mm they're about 20mm shorter than standard.

"A conventional, longer chainstay will be a more sedate ride if all other things are equal," said Vuelo Velo's Marty Renwick. "But this particular bike is built specifically around the notion of lively response. A short rear end feels fantastic climbing, sprinting or carving a tight line in a sharp corner. It's all about heightening your sense of awareness, the connectedness to each moment – infinitesimal control, like an F1 car."

Additional rear-end stiffness comes from the 86mm-wide, press-fit bottom bracket shell, which provides room for widely set chainstays along with a large-diameter down tube. The curved seat tube has an actual exit angle of 69 degrees but an effective one closer to 73 degrees – so while the look is unusual, the fit is conventional.

The seat tube and seat stays are gently curved: the seat tube and seat stays are gently curved

The Vuelo 8's seat tube and seat stays are gently curved

Gently arcing seatstays and titanium's natural ability to smooth out the road lend a characteristically lively and comfortable ride – metal bikes still have their place in this world, though those requiring the highest level of performance should still look to carbon fiber. Just as intended, the rear end of the Vuelo 8 is surprisingly stiff and there are no issues with wobble or instability even at 72km/h (45mph).

The front end unfortunately struggles to keep up and is noticeably softer than most carbon bikes and even some aluminum ones. Vuelo Velo specify a fairly generous 44mm-diameter down tube and 35mm top tube but even so, the Vuelo 8 wags a bit when you really stand on it and would benefit from an integrated or tapered head tube, or an even bigger main triangle. We were also disappointed to see low-rent cut vinyl decals on a bike like this.

The ultra high-end build kit of the bike seen here is rife with carbon fiber and includes a custom Dura-Ace Di2 internal wiring kit. Total weight is a fantastic 6.37kg (14.04lb) as pictured. Among the highlights are a custom Di2 battery housed inside the seatpost and a set of Shimano's latest sprint shifters – an extra set of buttons mounted on the drops for faster shifting and no need to move your hands when going full-out.

There are also trick Mad Fiber carbon tubular wheels, a full complement of cockpit components from ENVE Composites, Selle Italia's SLR Teknologika Flow saddle, and a SRM power meter. Additional lightweight bits include a Tune carbon fiber seat collar and bottle cages, Nokon aluminum cable housing and Cane Creek's AER headset.

Tufo s3 lite tubulars are mounted on the mad fiber carbon rims: tufo s3 lite tubulars are mounted on the mad fiber carbon rims

Tufo S3 Lite tubulars are mounted on Mad Fiber carbon rims

Vuelo Velo estimated the price for the build as pictured here at over $17,000 USD. It'll be offered as a frame-only for $4400.00 USD, prepare to settle in for a long wait. Quoted lead time is five to six months after drawings are confirmed.

Specification
Frame Vuelo Velo 8 (custom sizes)
Fork ENVE Composites 1.0
Headset Cane Creek AER
Stem ENVE Composites
Handlebar ENVE Composites
Tape Lizards Skins DSP
Front brake Shimano Dura-Ace BR-7900 with Mad Fiber carbon-specific cork pads
Rear brake Shimano Dura-Ace BR-7900 with Mad Fiber carbon-specific cork pads
Brake levers Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 STI Dual Control ST-7970
Front derailleur Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 FD-7970
Rear derailleur Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 RD-7970
Shift levers Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 STI Dual Control ST-7970 with SW-7972 sprint shifters
Cassette Shimano Dura-Ace CS-7900
Chain Shimano Dura-Ace CN-7900
Crankset SRM Wireless PowerMeter DuraAce 7900 compatible
Bottom bracket Shimano BB86
Pedals N/A
Wheelset Mad Fiber carbon tubular
Front tire Tufo S3 Lite tubular, 21mm
Rear tire Tufo S3 Lite tubular, 21mm
Saddle Selle Italia SLR Teknologika Flow
Seatpost ENVE Composites

(br)

Specialized Langster, Economic Fine Fixie Bike

2011-02-18T08:32:00.000-08:00

This bike is designed to suit all types of cyclists. The Specialized Langster is great for competitive track racers as well as your everyday commuters and fixed gear enthusiasts. The Langster is also known for its great efficiency and speed because of the 42 tooth chainring crankset.
This is a very efficient and speedy setup; I have ridden this bike before and it is a very quick, smooth and responsive bike. Like I said before, this is an extremely affordable bicycle for those who are looking to get into fixed gear riding. Another great aspect of this bike is that it comes with a flip flop hub which means you can ride it normally with a freewheel mechanism, or flip the rear wheel and ride it fixed. With this quality you can try out fixed gear style and if it is not for you, then you can easily convert back to a classic freewheel system. This bike also comes standard with front and rear wheel brakes which is an even better component for the beginner fixed gear cyclist. Check out some of the great deals on the Specialized Langster available through eBay auctions below.

The Specialized Langster is one of the finest bikes out on the market, especially if you are looking for a good starter bike that isn't too expensive and doesn't skimp on quality. The frame of the Langster is composed of specialized A1 aluminum that gives this bike a number of advantages over other material frames. The aluminum allows this bike to be very light and fast, as well as very durable against time and damages. I have had friends with this bike that have crashed it repeatedly and the bike never skipped a beat.

(bf)

Santa Cruz Blur LT Frame Only

2011-01-21T05:18:00.000-08:00

It’s almost two years since we went to see Santa Cruz in, er, Santa Cruz and came back with a brand new bike. So how is the Californian after two years’ hard labour in Yorkshire?

Well, it’s still impressing the hell out of people – not because of any particular technical aspects, just the sheer amount of fun it is. The relatively compact size frame and the easy rider-reactive compression of the rear suspension make it a hop-and-pop ﬁend.

Despite only 140mm of rear wheel travel, it’ll convince you that you can launch and land things you wouldn’t normally go anywhere near. The more you ride it the more effortless it seems, and the BLT has set some frightening precedents on pretty much every techy trail we’ve ridden it on. It’s continuing to do so too, despite the fact that we’ve been upgrading it with lighter components since summer.

Long-term tests are about longevity though, so what have we learnt in the last 24 months that we didn’t know in the ﬁrst 24 hours? The biggest change, in terms of lifespan, is the new bearings that Santa Cruz introduced on the BLT and have rolled out across every new chassis they have introduced since.

As well as being locked into place with coned collets and protected by metal shields and labyrinth seals, the bearings are ﬁtted with grease ports. This lets you slap on a grease gun and pump the bearing assembly with fresh grease. It should push old, dirty grinding paste gunk out in the process, but the bearings are so well sealed that there’s been very little contamination.

In fact, we’ve never even had to strip them down and clean them – and they’re still running silky smooth and wobble free. The only wear and movement we’ve seen is in the rear shock bush, which we had to replace after a year.

Fragile paintjobs were another frequent complaint from Santa Cruz owners. Happily, our BLT has shrugged off multiple crashes, general careless treatment and weeks in the Alps without any cosmetic damage apart from a few cable rubs and scuffs on frame stickers.

However, we are starting to wish it had a Maxle-compatible rear end and a tapered 1.5-1.125in head tube – like its recent carbon version – to make the most of the latest component developments. There’s still deﬁnitely plenty of ﬂat-out fun to be had well beyond the 1,000-mile mark though.

(br)

New Shimano DURA-ACE wheels and pedals

2011-01-18T08:27:00.000-08:00

As seen in the pro races this year (pictured, Juan Antonio Flecha of Team SKY), Shimano have now released their DURA-ACE wheels and pedals. This includes 24mm & 54mm carbon laminated aluminium rims and a 35min carbon aluminium rim and 35mm and 50mm full carbon tubular rims.

The DURA-ACE carbon composite SPD-SL pedals weigh in at 248gram a pair.

DURA-ACE Specs:

PD-7900
• DURA-ACE carbon composite SPD-SL pedals
• Maintaining all SPD-SL features and benefits
• Weight: 248g per pair
• Availability in the market: September 2010

WH-7900-C24-CL
• DURA-ACE Clincher wheel set with carbon laminated ultra thin aluminum rims
• Rim height: 24mm
• 16 butted, bladed, stainless steel spokes in the front and 20 in the rear wheel
• Weight: 1395g per set
• Availability in the market: November 2010

WH-7900-C24-TL
• DURA-ACE Tubeless wheel set with carbon laminated ultra thin aluminum rims
• Rim height: 24mm
• 16 butted, bladed, stainless steel spokes in the front and 20 in the rear wheel
• Weight: 1464g per set
• Availability in the market: November 2010

WH-7900-C35-CL
• DURA-ACE Clincher wheel set with carbon-aluminum rims
• Rim height: 35mm
• 16 butted, bladed, stainless steel spokes in the front and 20 in the rear wheel
• Weight: 1627g per set
• Availability in the market: October 2010

WH-7900-C35-TU
• DURA-ACE Tubular wheel set with full carbon rims
• Rim height: 35mm
• 16 butted, bladed, stainless steel spokes in the front and 20 in the rear wheel
• Weight: 1339g per set
• Availability in the market: October 2010

WH-7900-C50-CL
• DURA-ACE Clincher wheel set with carbon-aluminum rims
• Rim height: 50mm
• 16 butted, bladed, stainless steel spokes in the front and 20 in the rear wheel
• Weight: 1662g per set
• Availability in the market: April 2011

WH-7900-C50-TU
• DURA-ACE Tubular wheel set with full carbon rims
• Rim height: 50mm
• 16 butted, bladed, stainless steel spokes in the front and 20 in the rear wheel
• Weight: 1396g per set
• Availability in the market: April 2011

(bicycles)

Fixie Inc. Peacemaker with Belt Drive

2011-01-17T03:50:00.000-08:00

Belt drives are not mainstream... yet. The Fixie Inc. Peacemaker was my weapon of choice for my first Belt Drive ride and the main thought in my mind was how direct the transmission would actually be.

Fixie Inc are a cult German brand who make fixies, road bikes and a cyclocross bike. As a relatively young bike company, they have been capturing attention with fantastic concept bikes (see the current projects). The Peacemaker for 2010 (mentioned on BNA last year) comes standard with the Gates Carbon Belt Drive and quite simply offers a new dimension in cycling.

The Peacemaker I was able to test had a flipflop hub with freewheel side hooked up and even with the first pedal strokes I notice absolutely no give - transmission was direct. Actually, there shouldn't be any give, carbon bands inside run along the length of the belt however with the rubber casing you get the impression that it should be elastic.

Of interest, a belt will last much longer than a chain (I have heard five times longer) and while it is low maintenance as it doesn't stretch or need oil. That being said, it can't be as easily removed like a chain as it can't be broken. That means that the bicycles rear triangle has to somehow be broken in order to remove and replace the belt drive. The "JigSaw Coupler" on the rear seat stay is compact and nicely integrated and allows the frame to be broken so the belt can be replace. Fixie Inc argue that the position will least affect frame strength.

Even more striking than the transmission was the quiet, just the sound of the air rushing past. The 9 kilogram bike is zippy and almost silent meaning that it is just you with your spinning legs, and the city.

The only criticism is the braking power, I am used to more direct and grippy braking however during my short test this may be simply due to the factory fresh brake pads that need to be worn in.

Fixie Inc. don't have an Aussie distributer (at the time of writing) however a rough currency conversion would put the purchase price in Aussie dollars at around $2,200 - very fair for a low maintenance, high enjoyment ride.

(bicycles)

Featured User Review: Dura-Ace 7900 Groupset

2011-01-15T21:41:00.000-08:00

Price: $1380.00 at chainreactioncycles
Overall Rating: 5 of 5
Value Rating: 5 of 5
Bike Setup:
Scott Addict. DA 7900. DA C24 Clinchers.
Summary:

This is a strange review for me because I’ve long been a Campag fan. Before I go any further I just want to say I respect the opinion of all the other reviewers here and I don’t want to start any arguments about DA vs Red vs SR, I simply want to convey my experiences with this groupset.

I’ve ridden Campag on my favourite bikes for years and so has my wife. Our “best bikes” have had Chorus 11 on them for about 18 months. My brother bought a SRAM Red group about 6 months ago and I’ve been able to play with his bike for most of this time as he works away. About 1 year ago I bought a Cannondale CAAD 9 with DA 7900 and FSA SLK crank (which uses the BB30 system). I didn’t need it but it was 50% off and I’ve always wanted one so the wife gave me the nod. I always had the intention of fitting the Chorus 11 to it if I preferred the frame but a strange thing happened…
After having them all at my disposal I quickly worked out I didn’t like the Red. It is ruthlessly efficient but the hood shape doesn’t work for me and although it shifts fast, you need to use a lot of force at the lever.
(rbreview)

Mavic Crossride Wheelset

2011-01-15T03:45:00.000-08:00

The first thing to mention about this wheelset is the price. "Value" and "bargain" were scrawled across our test notes and the wheels perform well enough to make some riders question why you’d need to spend more at all.

Twenty-four stainless, straight-pull, bladed spokes per wheel mean the rims are strong and stiff before lacing. Brass nipples ensure they’ll stay workable through miles of use. The sealing’s been proven on long-term sets as well as this test pair. The FTS-X freehub features swift pick-up and a tough shell that resists cutting.

The six-bolt rotor mounts have unusual cut-out details on the back of each tab, presumably to reduce weight. Although we were wary of this, we’ve had 180mm rotors up front with no problems, and the delicate tabs are out of harm’s way behind the rotor itself.

The fly in the ointment is the 1,940g heft. Less substantial models are higher up the range for those prepared to pay more for less weight. Quick-release skewers and rim tapes seal the deal.

(br)

Giant Trinity Advanced SL2

2011-01-13T08:45:00.000-08:00

GIant’s Trinity Advanced SL is one of the new generation of ultra aero bikes that have been locked in battle against both drag and restrictive road-race regulations for more than a year now.

You’d think for £5,000 you’d be getting a properly bejewelled bike, so the fact the TASL 2 comes equipped like most £2,000 bikes shows just how much research and development cost the frame represents.

If you’re an experienced rider after the maximum possible straightline speed then it’s potentially worth it, but the braking and slow-speed handling deﬁnitely let it down in practical terms.

Ride & handling: Phenomenal power return for the experienced rider but not for the faint-hearted

While slow-speed manoeuvring is awkward, thanks to limited steering lock and a very wide turning circle, the Giant is phenomenally stiff between pedals and road. Press down, and the rigid base bars and rear end lever you forward with an undiluted surge that builds in crescendo as you click up through the gears and drop into the super-low tuck.

The extreme “head down, arse up” position and cutting-edge aerodynamics means it carves through the air with minimal noise apart from the buzz of your helmet straps. While it feels weird looking down and seeing the stem turning right underneath you rather than slightly ahead, the high-speed handling is good too. There’s very precise placement and decent stability, even as wind strength rises from the side.

Where this thoroughbred gets terrifying though is when you try to slow down. The tortuous, frame-fouling cable routing combines with extremely short levers to give a horribly spongy feel and frighteningly feeble braking power. Hopefully this is something that Giant can improve, but our demo bike deﬁnitely left us feeling alarmed.

Frame: Wind-tunnel-bred beast with a super-stiff rear end

To get round UCI road time trial rules, the deep section under the direct-ﬁt bars isn’t just a fairing – it’s actually the bottom half of the stem. Honest. The stem top plate then forms a totally ﬂush surface with the tapering top tube. The sidepull brake is also tucked behind the fork legs for minimum drag, with cables transferred from inside the stem to inside the down tube, with short sections of Nokon-articulated cable segments.

The down tube is a dead straight blade leading down to the press-ﬁt bottom bracket in the supersized Powercore BB area. Backwards-facing dropouts maximise security at the expense of the speed at which you can change a wheel, but lack of adjusters means the wheel position and frame clearance are ﬁxed.

The rear brake also gets tucked out of the wind under the massive chainstays, while the aero seat tube curves up and back round the wheel, before heading up vertically. There’s even a rubber gaiter over the seatclamp area to smooth airﬂow and the seatclamp is adjustable for fore and aft offset too.

While the base bar position is ﬁxed, the arm rests are adjustable for height via different riser inserts. Frame sizes are limited to small, medium and large options though, which means some riders will have a fudged ﬁt rather than a ﬁnely tuned one.

Cannondale CAAD10 2011

2011-01-09T01:32:00.000-08:00

Cannondale will be replacing it’s ever popular CAAD9 next year with an all new CAAD10. We got our first look at the new bike here at the 2010 Bike Press Camp and it looks like Cannondale found a way to make the CAAD even better. Watch the video below to hear what Doug Dalton has to say about the new bike. We’ll have a more in depth review of the bike later this summer.

here's some reviews..

* I also test rode the caad10, and here’s my take on it:
-very lite bike (for alu)
-bottom bracket area is not very stiff at all
-corners well, but nothing exciting
-comfortable ride

I have recently heard reports of the seatstays cracking at junction points, as well as bottom bracket cracks.

My personal rating of this bike: 5.5/10

Cannondale needs to assess these issues, and fast because the caad10’s are going for sale very soon.

* I love my 2010 CAAD9-4, greatest aluminum bike every built, but will never buy another Cannondale product – shorts, jersey, what have you- because of their transfer of production to Taiwan. And for what? 2 million of cost savings, to line the pockets of major institutional shareholders. Next bike will be a Serotta, Seven, or Parlee. This is a huge opportunity for one of the major US-based manufacturers to go downmarket and capture customers who value Made in USA frames.

* “The CAAD 10 is made in Taiwan, where quality control is not near the standards in the USA”. Ok so you’ve been super Roadie for like a decade and somehow someone thought it would be smart to hand you a CAAD10 so that you could slam it on line with out signing a nondisclosure… Don’t think so , but lets say for the sake of it they did. First things first if you knew the first thing about Cannondales QC ALL of the CAAD 10 frames will be welded in Asia and then sent to Pennsylvania where the same Americans that have be QCing their bikes for years will inspect measure and approve the frame and forks to be built up and build them up here in the states . So no need to worry about Taiwanese QC problems . Second , if you know anything about Cannondale they carry a lifetime warranty on manufacturer defects and one year on cosmetic flaws.They are very very good about standing by their products . So the truth is as long as you’re not hung up on Made in the USA Cannondale will still be providing cyclist with very hi quality performance for serious cyclists and semi entry level for individuals looking a long last quality Bike . As for Mikey_Mousey I’ll let you judge for yourselves…I’m just going to say Cannondale is smarter then that …

* Let me first begin by saying that I have test ridden a CAAD 10 bike, with similar setup as the one shown at the top of this page. As a dealer of Cannondales, I was invited to test them, and consider my orders for the Fall season. Cannondale did not require any of the dealers present, to sign a nondisclosure; that is simply bogus. I have been selling and servicing bikes for 9 years now, and I would never sell a superlight carbon racing frame to a 250lbs weekend warrior, for example. Similarly, I would not sell a CAAD 10 to a 250lbs rider, because it was designed for lighter riders who need to shave every gram possible for a racing advantage. This bike will likely not last as long as the CAAD9 or other well-built, heavier aluminum frames, simply because it’s tube walls are thinner and more minimalistic. That is the compromise of lighter frames. Take carbon as an example; when frame manufacturers began using it, frames were built tough but heavy (by today’s standards). These days a high end carbon frame can be broken if it tips over, because the tube walls are made thinner and lighter.

(rbrev)

Schwinn Racer Fixed 2011

2011-01-09T01:25:00.000-08:00

Not all Schwinn bikes are sold at Target, yet. But if your in the market for a reasonably priced fixie or city bike, the 2011 Schwinn Racer retails for under $300.

The components are standard on the Schwinn 2011 Racer fixed, wearing companies like Alex, KMC, and ProMax. Of course the Racer features in house parts, too, like its cranks, saddle and grips.

Two colors are available, black, with a metallic silver saddle and top-tube pad, and pink, with a black / graphite checkered saddle and top-tube pad.

Retail is $285.

(brev)

EASTON EC90 AERO WHEELSET

2011-01-08T02:01:00.000-08:00

EC90 Aero Tubulars are Easton’s medium-depth, 56-millimeter, profile carbon wheels. With most ProTour teams road racing on medium-depth aero wheels, Easton responded with a bladed-spoke wheel with a carbon rim that is lightweight enough to be a contender in a fast-paced criterium event, and slippery enough to provide an advantage for time trialists, or to stick a solo breakaway in a road race.

STANDOUT FEATURES
Easton developed a rounded aero shape for the EC90 rim that tests surprisingly well in the wind tunnel with low drag in a straight line and excellent performance in crosswinds. The 21-millimeter-wide carbon rim is 56-millimeters deep and has a modified composite braking track to withstand higher temperatures and provide smoother stops. Spoke nipples are internal for aero purposes. The smooth-rolling R4SL hubs are upgraded from last year with ceramic hybrid bearings and a more precise one-tool bearing preload adjustment feature (last year’s were finger-adjustable). The rear hub is a high/low configuration. Spokes are Sapim-bladed stainless steel, and the 18-spoke front wheel is radial-laced, while the 20-spoke rear is radial on the left and two-cross on the drive side. Aluminum freehubs are sold for either Campagnolo (our wheels) or SRAM/Shimano, and the wheelset comes with Swisstop brake pads, Ti-shaft quick-releases, valve extensions and a spoke key for $1800. Weight is 1358 grams a pair without quick-releases.

SETUP
We mounted the Easton EC90 Aero wheels to Schwalbe tubular tires inflated to 130 psi. The test bike was a BH G5, and the Easton wheels replaced a Campagnolo Eurus 2-Way Fit clincher wheelset for a weight savings of 170 grams. We had a few minor setup issues—the Easton-supplied cassette retainer nut was too thick to provide axle clearance for the right dropout (we used the thinner Campagnolo retainer with success). Minor, but worth mention, was that Easton’s valve extensions did not seal well with our Silca or Genuine Innovation pump heads.

PERFORMANCE RATINGS
BEST USE: Road racing, hilly time trials, criteriums, triathlon.

Initial setup: 2
Glue-on tires require some knowledge to mount, and if you don’t get a good seal on the valve extensions, you must remove the tires to refit them. Use a stock Campy cassette retainer and have a buddy help seat the pump head so you can get an accurate pressure reading on the pump.

Weight: 4
1358 grams is good for a laterally stiff, 56-millimeter-profile wheel.

Acceleration/climbing: 3
Smooth, fast acceleration. Easton’s EC90 Aero wheel feels fresh under power, and climbing performance is good, but we didn’t get the “snap” of an ultra-lightweight climbing wheel.

Road comfort: 3
Deep-section wheels tend to ride harshly, but not Easton’s. We ran them at 130 psi (moderate pressure for tubulars), and they managed to mute sharp bumps and smooth broken pavement. EC90 wheels are not plush, but they are smooth enough to fit into the road racing category.

Cornering feel: 5
Quote: “I’ve never cornered that fast before in a crit and held a steady line.” In a word: magical.

Braking: 3
Stopping power was good using the supplied Swisstop yellow pads. There was no pulsing, but the pad contact initially felt gritty with an audible hiss, and there was a bit of lag time before the brakes began stopping with authority.

Windy conditions: 5
Quote: “Just looking at them, I thought that I’d be all over the road, but they overachieved. They are really stable in high winds.”

Durability: 4
Still tight and true after 500-plus hard miles.

BUYING ADVICE
Easton EC90 Aero Tubular wheels are perfectly suited for a racer who needs a truly aerodynamic wheelset that can be used for a wide range of conditions, from criteriums and road races, to hilly time trials. It is one of the rare deep-profile aero wheels with easy-to-ride handling qualities.

Note: If you shy away from tubular tires, consider the fact that tubulars mute the normally rough ride of deep-section carbon wheels—and Easton’s EC90 Aero wheels are a match made in tubular heaven.

PRICE: $1800
WEIGHT: 1358 grams/pair (without QR’s)
COMPATIBLE: SRAM/Shimano, Campagnolo

(rba)

Giant Revel 0

2011-01-04T05:32:00.000-08:00

The 0 is the most costly bike in Giant’s Revel Recreation range, and it’s the only one to get hydraulic disc brakes. For another £50 you could go for a Talon 3, the entry-level bike in the trail range, which has a better frame but fewer gears.

Ride & handling: Let down by the fork

Unfortunately, both bikes come with the same SR Suntour fork, and the one on our test bike suffered from a clunky rebound, still a typical letdown on bikes around this price. Looking at the Giant catalogue, it seems as though you’ll have to go all the way up to £750 for the Talon 2 to get a decent fork.

Most of the time, a fork like SR Suntour’s XCM is simply irritating. However, on constantly rough ground you have to focus hard on gripping the bars while the rebound thunks mess with your comfort and control.

As if to add insult to injury, the rear gear slams constantly on the underside of the chainstay when riding bumps in the big ring. We’ve had this problem on a lot of other bikes with slightly dropped chainstays.

You can dull the noise by sticking a lump of foam or neoprene to the underside of the chainstay. As it is, descending on rough ground is not a good experience on the Revel.

These downsides are a real pity, because this is a bike that’s otherwise well made and would be a pleasure to ride with a decent fork.

It’s still fun on smooth sections of singletrack, and is manageable elsewhere as long as you keep the riding fairly casual. But the full potential of the bike is wasted when it has such a poor fork fitted.

Frame: A good set-up for the money

Giant frames always seem to be slightly superior to most of the opposition at a given price. While moving upmarket to the Talon range will get you an even better option, the Revel is well designed and neatly finished.

The tubes are manipulated to achieve exactly the right balance of low weight, drive stiffness and strength where it matters. The most notably reinforced section is the down tube, which has been massively triangulated and ovalised into the back of the head tube and almost box-sections into the bottom bracket shell.

The low top tube is like an ovalised triangle too, flared out around the head tube to achieve a big weld contact area. The rear stays offer plenty of tyre room and there are mounts for a rack, two sets of bottle cage bosses and even a kickstand plate.

Equipment: The fork isn't the only problem

As we've said, the SR Suntour XCM can be a bit of a handful on rough trails. It offers a lockout switch on top of the right-hand leg but the spring is uncontrolled, rebounding with a resounding thunk after every big bump.

It’s about time bike and fork manufacturers sorted this problem out. It’s a major downside on lots of otherwise decent entry-level rides. In most cases, all it would take is a soft elastomer top-out bumper to tame the rebound, even when there’s no actual rebound damping.

The Shimano Alivio gearset means rear shifting is always fast and accurate, but the FSA crankset isn't as smooth-shifting as on Shimano rings. Giant’s own Root brakes are powerful enough after a short bedding-in period, but they feel a bit wooden in function compared to the slightly better modulated feel of the brakes on other bikes.

The wheels are simply average for a bike at this price – well built, not light, but shod with good all-rounder tyres that roll fast on Tarmac and grip in all but the most slippery off-road conditions.

Giant’s house-brand saddle, post, stem and handlebars are all decent, and we like the fact that the stem comes with a 1.5in stack of height adjustment washers on the steerer.

The Giant is quite heavy compared to other bikes in its category. It isn't by much, but when an undamped fork with a clunky rebound hinders a ride, even when powering up climbs, you can do without any other downsides, no matter how minor.

If you like the idea of getting a Giant, we’d say look around on the web for a bargain on a properly damped fork. We’ve recently seen RockShox Toras for not much more than £100.

Also bear in mind that forks bearing the same label do seem to vary from bike to bike. Manufacturers have also been known to change duff forks in time for the next batch, so try before you buy. If the fork simply clunks back to full extension after compression, avoid it.

(br)

Guide to Kid Bike Sizes

2010-12-25T10:13:00.000-08:00

Children's bike sizes are determined by wheel diameter, not seat height and frame size as is the case with adult bicycles. The chart below should help you narrow your search, but it is not a substitute for an expert helping you find a bike that is most suitable. A critical factor is the brakes.

Coaster brakes tend to be easier for young kids to use but they become less common as the bikes get bigger. It can be a conundrum and dangerous when kids who are tall for their age fit bigger bikes with hand brakes that they can't operate well. After kids outgrow children's bikes they'll move into small-framed adult bikes with 26 inch, 27 inch or 700c wheels, which are sized by the length of the seat tube.

Approximate Age	Child's Inseam	Wheel diameter "bike size" *	Comments:
2-4 years	14-17 inches 35-42 cm	12 inches	Most come with training wheels, some are direct drive
4-6 years	16-20 inches 40-50 cm	14 inches	not commonly available
5-8 years	18-22 inches 45-55 cm	16 inches	Most have rear coaster breaks and pneumatic tires, some have front hand brakes.
6-9 years	20-24 inches 50-60 cm	18 inches	not commonly available
7-10 years	22-25 inches 55-63 cm	20 inches	Some models are multi-speed with hand brakes.
9+ years	24-28 inches 60-72 cm	24 inches	Can have most of the feature of adult bikes.

* The size doesn't have any relationship to a real measure: It is certainly not the diameter of the rim. Generally the given size is closer to the tire/tyre diameter from tread-to-tread, but it is usually greater that this distance as well.
(ibike)

2011 Schwinn Madison Fixie

2010-12-25T09:45:00.000-08:00

Schwinn offers two different models of the 2011 Madison fixed. One which we refer to as your basic model, and the other a retro theme.

Going retro can be a hit or miss, but the 2011 Schwinn Madison seems to pull it off with its white, purple and yellow colorways, a vintage styled Schwinn logo with a strike through, and bullhorn handlebar.

The basic version of the Schwinn 2011 Madison comes in red and white, 1980s Schwinn logo, and drop bars.

As far as tech goes, both 2011 Madison’s come with a gauged Cro-Mo track frame, Cro-Mo lugged crown fork, 46T alloy ring and 18T flip flop hub. MSRP is $549.

(br)

Cervelo RS Road Bike

2010-12-21T11:00:00.000-08:00

Bike Setup:
Full Dura Ace 7800 apart from an Ultegra cluster, DA or Kysrium wheels, Deda carbon post, Selle Italia Turbo 4 saddle (the best ever, now regrettably no longer made).

Favorite Ride:
Local Hills

Summary:
I bought this as a training frameset in 2009 (frame is 2008 and cost is for that alone in US dollars). What appealed was the reasonable cost, the stable geometry and promise of comfort for longer rides.

The RS has met all my expectations. It is laterally very stiff, particularly the chainstays and bottom bracket, yet horizontally compliant and so very comfortable.

The scary thin looking seatstays really do the job well. Compared with a Specialized Roubiaux that I previously owned it is a little less comfortable but has far better road feel – I could not really tell what was happening under the tyres of the Roubiaux but can with the RS – the Specialized was a little too remote from the road for my liking. The RS is reasonably light and is a fine climbing frame, a good descending frame (better than the rider!) and a great everyday riding bike. I have been riding and racing road bikes almost 30 years, and this is certainly the best training bike I have ever had. It can also handle rough roads and light gravel with no worries at all. If I had to limit myself to one road bike (perish the thought) this would be it.

This is not to say the bike is perfect. I have had chain suck a couple of times, which I have never had on another road bike and was not due to poorly adjusted mechs. Not a good feeling at the bottom of a steep hill. The 73 degree standard head and seat angles are a bit daft on a 61cm frame, particularly when the standard supplied seat post had zero setback. The frame is built to a budget, and the fit and finish show this a bit.

I also have a Specialized SL2 that I use as a race bike. This is no criticism of the Cervelo, but when I get on the SL2 after weeks on the RS, the relatively twitchy handling sure takes a bit of getting used to. But that’s my problem, and after a short time on the SL2, which is a great race bike but not an everday bike, all is ok with the world again.

Strengths:
Reasonably light yet laterally very stiff.
Excellent comfort combined with great road feel.
An excellent everyday bike that I look forward to riding.
Bang for the buck.
Generally sensible geometry.
Appears to be very robust for quite a light bike..

Weaknesses:
Occasional chain suck
Frame angles unchanged for different sizes.

Similar Products Used:
Pinarello Opera
Specialized Roubiaux
Trek 5200

(rbr)

Rose Mr Ride (custom build)

2010-12-21T10:53:00.000-08:00

Rose's Mr Ride 29er has it all in terms of component value and low weight, and the basic geometry is sound if you get the right size for your sort of riding. The brutal bluntness of the oversized frame tubes makes it a boneshaker on longer rides and less than buff trails, though.

Ride & handling: Stable, safe, burly

The Mr Ride's cockpit is well shaped for control, but handling is stable rather than racy. It takes some turning at higher speeds, but when you’ve got it pointing where you want or swooping through a turn it’s a safe ride.

The tall, short ride position helps you use bodyweight to bully the slack head angle through tight sections. If you want a decent stretch for climbing, try going up a size. There’s no shortage of drive from the stout rear end and a direct connection from grips to ground at both ends. This will suit powerful riders, but on rides much over an hour it’s punishing on your body.

We’d suggest exploiting the tubeless-ready potential of tyres and rims to soften it up, but even then it’s not a subtle ride. You’ll want faster rolling tyres than the Schwalbe Nobby Nics specced here to unleash its obvious low weight potential on climbs too.

Frame: Tidy, super-stiff and up-to-date chassis

The ring reinforced head tube isn’t tapered, but is fat enough to suck brake and shift lines into its face for a clean start to the frame. The oversized down tube and top tube/seat tube junctions are smooth welded. The massive throat gusset and ﬂared top tube make it look more like a jump bike than a cross-country bike though.

There’s a stiff BB30 press-ﬁt bottom bracket system and the neat cowled and scoop-backed dropouts carry easy-to-adjust post mount brake ﬁxtures. There’s a quick-release collar for the seatpost and adequate spacing round the 2.25in tyres. You can choose blue and white painted or black anodised ﬁnishes.

Equipment: Great wheels and plenty of options

The full triple compound Schwalbe tyres with racy Pacestar compound are a taste of the top-level componentry. They’re sat on Mavic’s light and eye-catching alloy-spoked C29ssMax wheels. Formula’s RX brakes get 180mm rotors for extra power. A broad Rose low-rise bar and short stem provide a sorted cockpit, and the own-brand seatpost is a quality twin-bolt piece.

Rose enable you to customise your componentry when you order. Our bike came with a RockShox Reba fork and SRAM X9 transmission to hit the £1,500 target price. The standard Fox-forked, SRAM X0, Formula R1, Syncros kit version is £1,700.

(BR)

Cannondale Road Bike 2011 Release

2010-12-17T18:03:00.000-08:00

Cannondale debuted their UK road range this week down on the, er, sunny South Coast. Over the years Cannondale have built up a reputation for engineering innovation and the canny ability to trickle high end winners down the price ranges as fast as possible, top end kit at not such top end prices… should be a winning formula for hard times. Among the 2011 highlights on display were a budget-friendly version of the award winning Super Six (well, relatively) and an all-new CAAD 10 performance aluminium frame pitched squarely against the budget end of the carbon bike market.

That's not all. There's also a new women's version of the Super Six and – back by popular demand – the Synapse aluminium road range, Cannondale's sub-£1000 all day riding bike which was inexplicably dropped from the range last year just at a time when demand for these sorts of bike had never been higher… no wonder Giant sold out of Defys so quickly.

We've got a slew of pics of all the new bikes and we'll be updating this story with more soon… including some of the resurrected Synapse. In the meantime, dig in to this lot…

Super Six 105

Cannondale really hit the bullseye with their range-topping Super Six road bike. It's cleaned up lots of awards and was piloted to first place in this year's Giro by Ivan Basso. A bike like Ivan's will set you back a serious amount of money – the top of the range Super Six HIMOD Team will leave you with a penny change out of £7K. Ouch! Fear not though, for 2011 Cannondale have come up with a Super Six for the common man… well, the common man with £1799.99 to spend. There's also a new Feminine version too for the er, common woman, more on that in a mo.

How do Cannondale do it you ask? Well, aside from the down specced componentry and wheels, the new entry-level version of the Super Six is made from standard modulus carbon, so a slight trade off in weight and stiffness (Cannondale claim 1050g for the standard frame in a 56 as opposed to 900g for the high modulus version) equals a big saving in manufacturing cost which is reflected in the price.

While the Super Six 105 build kit might lack the glitz of some of its pricier stablemates, it's still good stuff. We've been riding the new 105 gruppo for the last few months and it builds on the group's long-standing reputation for reliability and durability with a dash of higher end zip too. The Super Six comes with a 105 drivetrain with the chainset subbed out for an FSA BB30 compact, with 105 brakes and levers.

At £1799.99 the Super Six 105 might have the more eye-catching price, but the Ultegra version (£2499.99) looks good value too. Shimano's 6700 Ultegra groupset is probably our favourite drivetrain componentry, much closer in performance to Dura Ace than 105, and the Ultegra Super Six has much lighter wheels too – Mavic's legendary Kysirium Elites as compared to the Mavic Aksiums on the Super Six 105.

Last year the Super Six Ultegra was the range topping standard modulus version, for 2011 there is also a standard modulus Super Six Dura Ace at £3,699, although if it was our money we'd probably be looking at the Super Six HIMOD with SRAM Red which comes in at £200 less.

There are also 105 and Ultegra versions of the Super Six in Feminine versions too - that boils down to smaller sizes, starting at 44cm, and an overlap in sizes with the smaller sizes in the men's range. Gone are the days when Cannondale's women's bikes were self-consciously girly, so smaller men also get the benefit of an extra colour option, while women riders get proper performance machines in a greater range of sizes. The Super Six 105 Feminine is the same price as the men's version whiled the Super Six Ultegra Feminine is £100 dearer than it's male counterpart at £2599.99. We're not sure why that is and, to be honest, Cannondale's pricing may not be completely firmed up so if there is no difference in components and finishing kit to account for the difference the price will probably fall back in to line with its male counterpart.

On paper at least the Super Six 105 looks like a winner. £1799 buys you the heart of a great bike built up with more than functional componentry and wheels that can be upgraded as you go along. Yes, there is a slight penalty in terms of weight and stiffness around the bottom bracket but probably nothing most mortal riders are ever going to notice. Or, to put it another way, are most of us going to be good enough to exploit the advantages that the HIMOD frame bestows? Come on, be honest – it could save you a fair stick of cash.

CAAD 10

Cannondale are keeping the faith with aluminium as a frame material, introducing a new high-performance CAAD 10 frame for 2011. It doesn’t seem five minutes ago that we were on CAAD 4 (and have you noticed that policemen are getting younger by the day?).

CAAD 9 frames, which are no longer available, were made from 6061-T6 alloy but the new CAAD 10s are 6069. What does that mean? Although it’s harder to weld, this allows Cannondale to use thinner tube walls and drop the weight to 1,540g for the frame and forks (size 56).

As usual with Cannondale, the down tube is colossal while the top tube is a square-edged oval – check out the pics and you’ll see what we mean. The CAAD (Cannondale Advanced Aluminium Design, acronym fans) frames have always been known for their torsional stiffness and we can’t see this incarnation being any different, although we've yet to ride one round the block never mind get some serious miles

The head tube tapers from 1 1/8in at the top to 1 1/4in at the bottom while the chainstays and seatstays use SAVE (Synapse Active Vibration Elimination) shaping stolen from the Synapse range for extra comfort at the back. Oh, and you get an oversized BB30 bottom bracket too, for more stiffness and a slight weight saving.

There will be three CAAD 10 builds starting with the Shimano 105 equipped model for £1,299.99 in black (although we liked the red paint job on the version at the launch). The next-level-up Ultegra version is £1,899.99 in white and the top-line Dura-Ace build, which comes with Shimano’s RS-Eighty carbon laminate wheels and FSA SL-K cranks, will set you back £2,499.99 and comes in a very stealth anodized black. Cannondale are claiming a complete bike weight of 7.1kg (15.6lb) for that one – which is pretty darn light by anyone’s standards.

CAAD 8

Whereas Cannondale’s more expensive aluminium road bikes come in the new CAAD 10 design, the sub-£1000 models are CAAD 8. CAAD 9 is no more. It has ceased to be etc (unless it's just resting).

CAAD 8 is largely unchanged from last year in that it has a slightly less aggressive geometry than the CAAD 9 or CAAD 10 – you get a head tube that’s a touch longer and a reach that’s a little shorter for any given size. We’re only talking about small differences, though – 1.5cm on the head tube – it’s still a fast, racy setup.

Cannondale have neatened up the CAAD 8’s rear mudguard mount and lost 60g off the carbon fork, but that’s about all. The CAAD 8 frame weight (size 56) is claimed to be 1,470g.

There are three bikes in the range, all Shimano-equipped. The Sora version is £699.99, putting it right in the mix against the likes of the Specialized Allez, Giant Defy, and Trek 1.2, it's amazing to think that not very many years ago that frame was on team bikes and now it's the company's entry level offering. The CAAD8 Tiagra is £849.99, and the 105 model is £999.99, sneaking in just under the £1,000 limit for buying a bike tax free on the Cycle to Work Scheme. It’s almost as if they planned it that way. As well as being cycle to work friendly, the 105 CAAD8 stands out for another reason too being possibly the cheapest bike on the market (along with the Synapse ALU 105) to come with a BB30 bottom bracket… its that trickle down technology again.

Super X

Cannondale have five cyclocross bikes in the lineup for 2011 including one that we think is an absolute bargain as a commuting option.

At the top of the range, Cannondale have gone all carbon fibre with two new high modulus SuperX models. Like the CAAD 10 road bikes, they have tapered (1 1/8in to 1 1/4in) head tubes but no disc mounts. They don’t have SI cranks either, because Cannondale wanted to keep the cost down for more price conscious 'cross riders. The good news, though, is that the frame and fork package weighs in at just 1,400g (3.08lb).

Cannondale reckon the SuperX models ride a lot like their Flash mountain bikes but we’ve not got one anywhere near any mud so couldn’t comment on that. What we can say is that the front end of the bike shares much of the same tubing as the Flash, while a glance at the back shows there's a fair whack of Super Six in its DNA too – check out the tube profiles around the seat tube junction and the rear states. The SRAM Red build will set you back a cool £3,499.99 while the Shimano Ultegra option is £2,399.99.

CAADX Range

The other cyclocross bikes are alloy, built around the CAADX frame which is an upgrade from last year’s CAAD9. They come with full mudguard and rack mounts, 46/36 chainrings and canti brakes - yes, it's our new best friend – the 'cross bike you can ride to work. We're long time fans of this format (yes we know a tourer would do the same job… but ) and at £999.99 the CAADX 105 model looks like killer value to us – it’s got to be the one to go for, especially if you can get it tax-free on the Cycle to Work Scheme. The other choices are Tiagra (£899.99) and Ultegra (£1,399.99).

Cannondale Synapse Alu

Specialized's Roubaix may have been the game changer when it came to marrying performance to comfort, but Cannondale were early pioneers of the same concept. If memory serves, they actually got their before Spesh with the model that the Synapse replaced… and which I can't remember the name of… (all suggestions gratefully received cos it's driving me nuts trying to remember). Indeed the Synapse itself has been around a good while now, and along with the Roubaix has helped set the template for this type of bike: higher position, more forgiving contact points, plenty of vibration damping from the forks and stays.

The Synapse range goes right from high modulus carbon models through to aluminium, but last year Cannondale pulled something of a left field move by dropping the alu models except for the Feminine version. This year it's back in Sora, Tiagra and 105 versions which match up in spec and pricing to the CAAD 8 range. All are under the magic £1000 mark making them ideal bikes for those needing a do-it-all machine suited to a longer commute and putting in big weekend miles – and they'll certainly be be competing for the affections of sportive riders along with Giant's Defy range and the Trek Pilot.

Apart from that more upright position and comfy shallow drop bars, the big deal with the Synapse range is their SAVE chainstays and fork which, say Cannondale, are "organically shaped to act like a micro suspension system without sacrificing the lateral stiffness needed for pedaling efficiency". Top marks for not mentioning vertical compliance. The Synapse is a comfortable bike, but just to make sure it hasn't lost anything while its been away we've already got our name down for a test sample.

(rcc)

Bicycle Size Guide

2010-12-16T15:22:00.000-08:00

This chart is a guide only and does not take into account personal flexibility, injuries,
range of motion or personal riding style. To determine correct inseam measurement
stand with your back to a wall, your bare feet approx 150mm apart.

Place a book or carpenters square between your legs and pull firmly up to your crotch.
Have a helper measure from the top of the book/square to the floor, in centimetres.
Repeat two or three times for consistency and average the results to get your inseam length.

To determine overall height, stand with your back to a wall and place a book or
carpenters square on top of your head. Have a helper measure from the bottom
of the book to the floor. Repeat two or three times for consistency and
average the results.

(CD)

NEW ARRIVAL: XDS A8 (foldable bike)

2010-12-16T15:12:00.000-08:00

New arrival off folding bike from XDS, more powerfull, more stylist, and easy to move with this bike.

Specifications:

Frame Tubing	XDS 20” Aluminum Frame
Front Fork	Rigid Fork
Pedals	Foldable Nylon Bearing
Crank	PROWELL 52T*
Front derailleur	Non
Rear derailleur	Shimano Acera
Shifters	Shimano Acera 8spd
Cassette	Shimano 8spd
Chain	KMC 8spd
Front hub	Alloy Hub
Rear hub	Alloy Hub cassette hub
Rims	Double Wall Rim
Tires	Kenda 20”x1.5*
Brake set	Tektro V-Brake Set
Brake levers	Tektro Brake Level
Handlebar	Alloy Handle Bar
Stem	Foldable type alloy stem
Tape/grip	Comfort grip
Saddle	Velo Comfort Saddle
Seat post	Alloy over size seat post
Seat clamp	Alloy QR
Color(s)	Silver
Weight	14kg*
Price	RRP rm 1299

**specifications are subject to change without prior notice

(usjcycles)

How to Use Bicycle Gears?

2010-12-16T15:05:00.000-08:00

Most bikes these days come with 18spd (front 3 x rear gear 6spd) or 21spd (front 3 x rear gear 7spd). However, this doesn’t mean you have an unusable gears. Most USJ Cycles’ customers get confused by all of the gear combinations available.

I myself didn’t understand it when I first started using a multiple-speed bike. So today you can click the diagram above to learn how to use the gears most effectively. When you know the usage of LOW, MEDIUM and HIGH gear, your cycling experience will be much more enjoyable.

(usjcycles)

Scratch Air Downhill Bike

2010-12-16T11:21:00.000-08:00

Trek’s Scratch bikes have been refocused for 2011, which means their hefty coil-sprung model has given up any pretence of being a trail bike, shifting to a single ring and ﬁxed 180mm-travel (7.1in) fork. The Air, meanwhile, is pitched as a ‘light’ freeride bike that’ll climb without much grumbling.

Ride & handling: A ‘light’ freeride bike with secret climbing powers

The Scratch Air’s regular Fox RP23 shock doesn’t have the two-stage magic of the DRCV model found on Trek’s popular Remedy but since it has 20mm (0.8in) more travel, we didn’t particularly miss the feature. Set the back end up with a decent amount of sag and the Scratch Air settles back on its haunches, ready to take on pretty much anything.

It’s poised on steep, technical stuff but light enough to be chucked around. The surprise comes when you have to pedal back up. A bike in the 13.6kg (30lb) range is never going to keep pace with a 11.6kg (26lb) trail bike, but the Scratch Air puts in a decent showing.

That’s mainly thanks to the steep seat angle – in the saddle, your weight’s pushed forward, helping to keep the front end in line, and there’s always the TALAS fork’s 120mm (4.7in) travel setting if you need it. Yes, you’re hindered by the short cockpit, but it’s not meant to be fast uphill – just to get there, which it does well.

We rode a coil-sprung Scratch back-to-back with the Air, and while the heavier, slacker bike is an excellent park weapon, the Air isn’t far off it and is considerably more versatile. For lift-free areas, the Scratch Air 9 makes a lot of sense.

Frame & equipment: Versatile chassis plus decent finishing kit

Trek use the same Alpha Red aluminium frame on the Scratch Air and burlier coil-sprung Scratch – both have 170mm (6.7in) of rear travel, but the Air ends up with slightly steeper angles thanks to its shorter fork. Trek’s adjustable Mino Link lets you alter the head angle by 0.5 degrees and the bottom bracket height by 7mm, though.

Up front, you’ll ﬁnd a tapered E2 head tube and under the down tube is a polymer guard to reduce the potential for rock strike damage. Out back, you’ll ﬁnd the same Active Braking Pivot rear end as Trek’s other full-suspension bikes. The Scratch takes a 142x12mm rear wheel, but you can convert it to use a 135x12 if you prefer.

With the introduction of 10-speed cassettes, 2x10 drivetrains have come into their own. Shimano XT transmission is dominant throughout here and the 11-36T cassette is teamed with a Race Face Atlas 24/36 chainset to deliver a useful range.

The wheel package consists of DT Swiss E2000 wheels shod with 2.35in Bontrager XR4 tyres. Finishing kit is mostly Bontrager too, with an adjustable CrankBrothers Joplin seatpost adding to the bike’s ready-for-anything feel.

(BR)

1941 Schwinn | Liberty Autocycle

2010-12-13T07:48:00.000-08:00

This 1941 Schwinn Super Deluxe Autocycle belongs to Drew Rollins. He found it at a local farm auction and restored it to the glory you see now.

This was the top of the line for Schwinn in 1941, wearing much of the late 30's accessories that are so popular, such as the cross-bar with Stewart Warner speedometer and fender-bomb reflector. Dual Expander brakes make it stop, and twin Seiss headlights light the way. Paint on this bike was done by Dave Stromberger at Dave's Vintage Bicycles.

Year:	1941		Brand:	Schwinn
Owner Name:	Drew Rollins		Bicycle of the Month:	November 2005

Let's Try Google Bikes

2010-12-13T07:32:00.000-08:00

Google extend their designs to customers needing something as unique as they are. Case in point, they outfitted Google with a fleet of bikes that Googlers use to cruise from building to building at the Googleplex in Mountain View, California.

If your company or organization wants to promote green transportation, or requires something unique, get in touch!

Calfee Tandem Bicycles

2010-12-12T03:37:00.000-08:00

When only the best will do, then Calfee is your choice. Think of these bikes as the Ferraris of the tandem world: gorgeous speed demons that might just earn you a speeding ticket if you're not careful!

When it comes to carbon, Craig Calfee is the master. Craig has been using carbon in bicycles longer than anyone and carbon and bamboo bikes are what he builds, and that's all he builds. Other builders may make claims about lightness or comfort, but the proof is in the testride: Calfee frames are THE lightest and THE most comfortable bikes on the planet, period.

Calfee Design together with Tandem Cycle Works, customizes the Tetra and Dragonfly Tandem bicycles to meet each rider's specific needs. As the number one Calfee tandem dealer in the world, Tandem Cyce Works can help you build your dream tandem. Company founder Craig Calfee and his team work to assure that every specification matches the requirements of a particular tandem team. This specialized process of custom designing a tandem means that a variety of factors are considered in the construction of each bike.

The Calfee name guarantees top quality, durability and superb craftsmanship using high technology materials. The Calfee warranty backs this up. These tandems have a 25-year warranty. Compare this to the other carbon bike builders and you will be surprised to learn that 3 and 5-year warranties are the norm.

Calfee tandems are not for everyone, but discerning tandem riders will appreciate these stunning bikes. Just be ready to have all the other riders in your group become very jealous!

(tandemcw)

Fixie Bike Spesification

2010-12-12T03:22:00.000-08:00

This fixie bikes are built around steel track frame core. Great geometry, drop out frame, straight blade forks and flip-flop hub, and just 23lbs are just some of highlights. Designed for recreational riding our bikes make for great work or school commuters, townie or bar hopper. Sleek looks with solid dependable components make this bike a stand out from the others. On top of that our customization options and exceptional price make our bikes a no brainier when it comes to value. Take a look at what we have to offer.

Frame
700C*520/560/600mm hi-tensile steel track bike frame
R/T34*38 Top tube28.6*1.2mm,Down tube:31.8*1.2mm,Seat tube:28.6*1.4mm for 25.4mm seat post ,
Seat stay:19*1.2,Chain stay:22.2*1.2mm horizontal track drop out, W120mm,

Fork
700c hi-tensile steel 28.6*25.4 threadless, straight blade 28.6*1.4t ,w100mm

Handle Bars
Alloy bull horn bars 26*23.7*w400mm,or
Alloy curved drop bar 420mm

Bottom Bracket
Sealed and cartridged ,68*103mm,b1.37*24tpi , ISO taper

Cranks
46 tooth alloy lasco fixie original cranks 1/8×170

Brakes
Radius alloy caliper brakes

Rims
Doublestar 700c*14g*32h f/v double wall deep v type track rims

Rear Hub
Quando flip/flop alloy hub with 16tooth fixed cog and16 tooth free wheele

Front Hub
Quando 3/8x100wx140lx14gx32h steel w/f.n

Tire
Colored 700c*23c a/v long type ,schrader type. 100 psi

Seat
PVC top w/bed clamp a head

Seat Post
Light weight alloy 25.4mmx250mm ahead type, fixed allen clamp

Chain
KMC fixie z410 1/2x1/8*96 colored chain

Pedals
PP body steel cage 9/16" baron axle cpsc with clips

Weight
Just 22 to 23 lbs depending on size

(bsb)

Cycling Shoes

2010-12-09T11:14:00.000-08:00

If you want to ride comfortably and efficiently you need to own a pair of cycling specific shoes, you probably already know this if you have been doing a lot of cycling. The big problem is to work out which cycling shoes are correct for you and the form of cycling that you choose to take part in.

Which Shoes Should I Buy?

The first answer is easy, there are specific biking shoes for each different discipline; from mountain biking to road shoes, track and spinning. There are even shoes that are specificly designed to keep your feet warm in the winter.

A word to women’s cycling shoes

Size and shape are the main problems for women to find the perfect cycling shoe, all the usual manufacturers. Sidi, just like the men’s ones, make some of the nicest and covers all the sizes that the ladies need.

Look out for comfort on the inside of the shoe, any seems or joints will rub your foot and cause problems. The closure systems are the same as the men’s, and will not cause you any problems.

Finding the correct size is the most important thing, and some of the manufacturers don’t make small enough shoes, check this out first on the manufacturer’s web-site then try to find a pair in a bike/sports shop that fits.

What to Look For: Comfort is the most important thing with shoes, they must fit well and the fastening system must hold your feet in the shoe securely and without constricting them and causing any numbness.

The toe area must give you room and around the ankle must be comfortable, check that the heel gives support and holds your heel without movement, if your heel is moving around in the shoe it can cause discomfort and could cause a knee or hip injury.

Get the best you can afford, but make sure that they are comfortable!!

Look at the table below….there are as many different shoes as we can image. BCR hopes that this will help you to make an informed purchase. There are some basic guide lines; price, fit, looks and function:

Road Bike Shoes		Introduction and basics to road cycling shoes. What you need to know before buying your next ones. The sole, shoe plate, leather, and systems to see which is most comfortable for you
Road Shoes Manufacturers Review		Review of the principal road shoes manufacturers. Talks about the Sidi Ergo 2, Shimano, DTM, Lake, Spiuk, Adidas.
Mountain Bike Shoes		Reviews of mountain biking shoes. Shimano SPD, clipless pedals, studs for grip in muddy and fittings.
Winter Cycling Shoes		Further readings on special cycling shoes for training in winter. Shimano, Sidi, Nalini and North Wave are the few brand names that make these special boots.
Triathlon Shoes		Review of the Shimano TR50. Road shoes made for triathlon.Read the differences between road and those triahtlon specific shoes.
Indoor/Spinning Shoes		Quick guide on shoes for indoor cycling. Sidi and Shimano are the top manufacturers. These are not cheap, but there are others. Read on. (BCR)

Taking the 'Bond bike' for a spin in the snow

2010-12-09T11:03:00.000-08:00

Britain's Environmental Transport Association (ETA) have taken advantage of the early winter snow to demonstrate their caterpillar track-driven snow bike.

The kit is manufactured by Canadian company K-Trak and converts any existing 26in hardtail or full-suspension mountain bike into a snow bike. A single ski replaces the front wheel, while a specially designed rear wheel and rubber track setup enables the rider to retain use of their gears and rear brake.

The ETA used the K-Trak system to build its 'Bond bike' concept bike for the recent Cycle Show 2010 in London, primarily to promote the ETA's cycle insurance policies. However, the organisation's Yannick Read seized the opportunity provided by the recent snow in Britain to carry out a real-world test of the system.

"It's really designed for riding downhill, as on the flat it's quite hard work," Yannick told BikeRadar.

"But I took it up to the Snow Dome at Milton Keynes, so I could test it on the downhill. I'm not sure I'd trade it in for my snowboard, but it's definitely a great laugh."

Read said that while the unit is unlikely to offer a practical substitute for most commuters’ existing bikes, he’s been pleasantly surprised by how simple the system has been to fit and use.

"I've managed my daily commute on my mountain bike in relatively deep snow, so I'm not sure there's a need to replace it with something like this," he said.

"I wasn't sure how well it would run downhill with a track on the back, but it does work very well. I came off a few times, but it's quite straightforward. If you can ride a bike, you can ride this straight away."

The K-Trak used by the ETA was sourced from a distributor in Italy. The company have a worldwide distribution network, but the system is not currently available on sale in Britain.

(BR)

Giant Reign

2010-12-09T08:00:00.000-08:00

Giant’s Reign has been evolving for years now, generally getting both lighter and slacker with each passing season. The 2011 version is no exception. What’s more, it receives a tapered-steerer-compatible Overdrive head tube that’s raked out by 1.5° compared to the 2010 bike.

Ride & handling: Stiff and light but rear suspension never gave the performance we expected

With the Reign, Giant have ticked all the essential contemporary long-travel trail bike boxes. The 67.5° head angle extends the front centre of the bike by more than 1cm, increasing confidence and stability in high speed, ‘lean back and let it fly’ situations. While the bar width isn’t freeride wide, it’s long enough for reassuring leverage, and the stubby 70mm stem on our medium-sized bike is bang-on for making light work of quick-reaction situations.

There’s definite twist in the fork tips, but the Overdrive head tube steers the Kenda Nevegal front tyre with predictable accuracy. Rear wheel tracking is tight, although the long rear end means the Reign prefers to stay in a straight line rather than snap round quickly. You can make it more responsive and manageable by dropping the Fox 32 TALAS fork travel down to 120mm (4.7in).

The lower front end also keeps the bike more controllable on sharp climbs, where the light, fast-reacting wheelset and the broad middle ring range of the transmission make a big difference to altitude-gain enthusiasm. However, despite an extremely intense 25-hour ride period on the bike, the rear suspension never felt like we wanted it too.

We set sag in the normal way, made sure we were getting full travel and wound and toggled through every rebound and compression damping setting. Whatever we tried, the short 200mm shock always felt overworked and inert, reacting to bumps more like a 5in-travel bike than a 6in one. The ProPedal platform damping lever was also essential to stop mushy bob under power.

A definite disappointment and confusing considering we’re happy with the way the same system works on the 4in-travel Anthem, the 5in Trance and the 7in Faith. Add the long wheelbase stability and this ultimately leaves the Reign feeling best suited for long-distance big hill work rather than short attention span, big-risk rides.

Frame & equipment: Totally reworked chassis decked out with cross-country spec kit

The totally reworked frame now has a multi-sided, thinner-walled down tube and other hydroformed pipes to shave weight, plus the linkages and chainstay yokes have been trimmed extensively. A press-fit bottom bracket, DMD front mech and post-style rear brake mount save even more weight and bring the frame bang up to date. But the Reign keeps hold of its forebear’s 152mm-travel (6in) Maestro twin linkage suspension.

Elsewhere, the neat cable routing includes clips under the rocker pivot, there’s a conventional bottle cage mount and a Y brace ahead of the wheel removes the need for a tyre-cramping bridge across the stays. Having a dropper seatpost as standard gets round previous Reigns’ seatpost-lowering issues, caused by the curved seat tube, although the seat quick-release looks cheap for a flagship bike.

While the slacker frame suggests a more aggro orientation, the kit definitely positions the Reign in the long-travel trail category. The Fox 32 TALAS RC fork is one of the lightest 150mm-travel (5.9in) adjustable forks available. Even with a 15QR screw-through axle, it’s relatively flexy and lacks the gold-coloured Kashima coating of 2011 aftermarket forks, though.

Hidden under a dark limited edition colourway are a pair of DT Swiss Tricon wheels. They’re seriously pricey and stiff but super-light. The rims are narrow though, and the DT Swiss RWS skewer needs careful use to avoid stripping the plastic ratchet. The colour-coded Avid Elixir CR brakes have lightweight 185/160mm alloy spider rotors, while the 690mm-wide Giant Contact bars are carbon fibre.

You also get a full triple chainset, 30-speed Dyna-Sys XT transmission and a Fi’zi:k Gobi saddle – the distance rider’s favourite. In fact, the only concessions to more aggressive riding are a soft Stick-E compound front tyre and remote control CrankBrothers Joplin 4 dropper seatpost. Constant ‘auto drop’ problems with our post and several others on the Giant demo fleet suggest the latter may prove an unreliable addition to the mix.

Cannondale SuperX SRAM Rival

2010-12-09T07:56:00.000-08:00

While many cyclo-cross bikes are pure performance machines meant for an hour-long lung-searing event, Cannondale's SuperX is a proven winner that also offers a surprisingly smooth and comfortable ride. It's just a shame the price is so high.

Ride & handling: Smooth, surefooted and confidence-inspiring

We rode the Cannondale during our weekly fall training rides, including our Wednesday mock ’cross races, and we found ourselves really enjoying it. In fact, it's one of only a couple of 'cross bikes that we'd consider riding as a road bike during the summer.

The SuperX won both the elite men’s NACT and USGP cyclo-cross series in the States this year so we were expecting a fast and efficient ride. What we weren't expecting was the frame feel. While most professional-level 'cross bikes are ultra-stiff, Cannondale’s first all-carbon effort has a noticeable 'soft' feel, especially in terms of pedaling.

Don't get us wrong: the burly fork and head tube set a tone – or line – that the rest of the bike is happy to follow. But while super-snappy bikes like Ridley’s X-Night and even Cannondale’s older CAAD 9 design – both of which we have extensive experience with – have a tendency to jackhammer their riders, the SuperX provides a much more comfortable ride.

The SuperX head tube and fork configuration set a handling tone for the bike to follow

It's best described as smooth, although you could also call it sure or confident. 'Cross racers often argue that, with races only lasting an hour, comfort is unimportant. But where we find comfort, we find speed. The less we bounce around, the more we can pedal, and the more comfortable our back muscles are, the harder we can pedal.

One of our favorite cyclo-cross bikes ever is Time’s ProCross, and we like it for precisely these reasons. It’s also a bike most would describe as ‘soft’. Granted our tester isn't a big rider, nor a ‘wattage cottage’, so ultimate stiffness isn't required. The carbon SuperX seems to wiggle when the alloy version would snap, but it also seems to carve when the alloy version would skip.

What kind of rider are you? The one who makes up their time on the smooth road sections of the course or the sketchy off-camber? The SuperX was developed to cater to the latter. Which makes loads of sense if you look at the team’s star rider, and America’s first cyclo-cross world championship medal winner, Tim Johnson.

There is a critical difference between you (or me) and Tim Johnson, however – he gets his SuperXs for free. In a perfect world, where we'd just won the lottery and could afford three SuperXs, we’d happily take them. But for the average cyclo-cross racer, who isn't made of money, it's difficult to recommend the SuperX when you could buy two alloy bikes – even two alloy CAAD Xs with similar specs – for the same price.

Having said that, if you've got the money and want a quality race machine or something to train on that’s more useful than a straight road bike, the SuperX does offer a phenomenal ride. And to put the price into perspective, you can have this full SRAM Rival equipped bike for about the same price as Time’s ProCross frame module.

Frame: Cannondale's first all-carbon 'cross chassis is comfortable above all

The SuperX frame takes many cues from Cannondale’s Flash mountain bike line, mainly in the form of tube shaping and the use of SAVE (Synapse Active Vibration Elimination) stays, which now flow with continuous fibers from the seatstays into the top tube past the seat tube junction.

The chainstays also feature SAVE technology, which is basically a flattened section near the rear dropouts. The design is said to add a hint of vertical flex without giving up lateral stiffness. We do see the flow of the horizontally flattened chainstays to the bottom bracket as a source of the frame’s softness, in terms of pedaling.

SAVE is also used in the chainstays; the flattened design is said to offer better vibration damping

The SuperX uses a ‘BallisTec’ carbon that Cannondale says to be more impact resistant than other types and commonplace in military and other sport applications, such as hockey sticks. The frame is – fittingly, seeing as Cannondale introduced the standard – equipped with a BB30 bottom bracket and now incorporates a tapered 1-1/8in to 1-1/4in tapered head tube and steerer, which wasn’t found on the previous alloy model.

All cables are routed both externally and traditionally – derailleurs on the down tube and rear brake along the right side of the top tube – which forces the use of a sealed cable system, should you want to keep up with the smoothness of those who’ve gone down the route of internal routing.

A 27.2mm round seatpost finishes the frame off and offers improved comfort compared to the larger diameter posts or aero shaped seatmasts used by other brands. The burly SuperX fork is a key component in the performance equation. It allows the rider to set a course that the rest of the chassis will follow; in simple terms, it gives the orders to the rest of the frameset.

Equipment: High frame and fork cost forces a few kit compromises

With such a new and advanced design for the frame, and with the top-end SRAM Red equipped version costing well over US$7,000 (£3,499 in the UK) – obscene pricing for a ’cross bike, if you ask us – Cannondale have had to make some compromises with the specification to keep the price under US$4,000 on this second tier SuperX. (NOTE: The SuperX is available with Shimano Ultegra rather than SRAM Rival in the UK, at £2,399.)

The SRAM Rival transmission operated as expected, which is to say that it worked as well as Force or even Red, just with a bit more weight. We were, however, disappointed with the weight of the Mavic Ksyrium Equipe wheels. The finish of the 2011 models also feels cheaper than before, due to all of the paint versus the anodizing used in the past.

The other major letdown with this component package was the FSA K-Force brakeset. Strong springs make the lever pull quite hard, and this makes small, precise brake inputs quite hard to achieve. Also, while the brakes' geometry seems to provide decent power, we weren’t happy with the pad compound, which was too grabby on the multiple aluminum rimmed wheelsets we tested it with, including the stock Mavic Ksyrium Elites, Zipp’s 101s and Shimano’s RS-80s.

FSA's SL-K brakes were hard to pull due to extra-strong springs and somewhat grabby

Our last, relatively minor, critique of the SuperX Rival’s component package is the Cannondale C2 stem, which we found to be quite flexible, when compared to any of the name-brand stems we’ve used or would expect to find on a bike costing $4,000. It’s much more flexible than the FSA OS-115 or OS-99, even.

(BR)

Merida Ninety-Six Carbon Team-D

2010-07-22T09:30:00.000-07:00

Merida’s Ninety-Six project was designed to put both their World Cup cross-country race team and their bike design skills at the top of the tree. While it’s no relaxed and easy option, it’s far more fun than you’d expect from such a light, race-honed ride.

Ride & handling: A real racing thoroughbred

As soon as you hit the singletrack, there’s no doubting the front end of this bike is a pure race set-up. While the stroke is pretty smooth, the narrow stance of the R7 fork is easy to tie in knots in hard brake-and-turn or step situations. The long stem and narrow bar make it prone to stumbling under pressure too and the very compact frame puts a lot of your weight forwards. But if you can avoid going over the bars long enough to tame it, the Ninety-Six is brilliant high velocity fun.

Merida were very keen to emphasis just how stiff – as well as light – the Ninety-Six is when they handed it over, and they’re not joking. As soon as you press on the pedals you can feel the solidity of the deep section chainstays and oversized BB30 crank axle levering the super light wheels into life.

Although the fork feels noodly, there’s no shortage of mainframe stiffness to let you bring shoulders into action too, and you’ll be using that big ring far more than you used to. What also surprised us was how much time the Ninety-Six spent off the ground. The compact size makes it great to whip and hip, and its sub-10kg (22lb) weight made launching it effortlessy addictive, and flight times surprisingly long.

While it only has 96mm (3.8in) of travel, the DT shock operates at a really low 2:1 leverage ratio, which gives it a very smooth and succulent feel. The resulting rear control and ground connection would genuinely shame a lot of 120mm (4.7in) travel bikes, let alone 100mm ones. As you’d expect, it climbs like a dream too, with the steep angles and long stem keeping it locked on line rather than wandering all over the place. The only occasional glitch to wringing its neck through twisty singletrack are mis-shifts from the Gripshift, but it always muscled its way out of stall situations.

Having been so impressed with the trail presence of the Team, we are also really keen to try the alloy models, albeit in a longer stretch size that would increase stability in more technical moments.

Frame & equipment: lightweight and seriously stiff

At 1,760g, the Ninety-Six frame is one of the lightest full sussers available, but Merida have worked hard to keep it seriously stiff too. It’s not compatible with tapered forks, but Merida say the egghead head tube gives the frame – if not fork – similar stiffness advantages.

The double chamber main tubes use an extra internal wall and external shaping to minimise tube distortion, and the head and main tubes are made separately to the seat tube and bottom bracket for maximum quality control, before being sleeve-jointed at the bottom and wrapped at the top.

Merida ninety-six carbon team-d: merida ninety-six carbon team-d

Merida also use nano particle enriched resin to maximise the strength of the carbon sheets. The oversized BB30 bottom bracket matches the deep chainstays and carbon driveside dropout for brutal stiffness. The carbon linkage plates have oversized bearings and titanium bolts to complete the circuit.

Although the mud clearance isn’t huge – 2.25in tyres will be a bit of a squeeze – the cable routing is tidy, with double clips on the top tube and chainstay, and combined brake, gear and bolt mounts for the colour-coordinated carbon bottle cage.

The colour coordination extends to the weight watcher’s favourite Manitou R7 fork, which comes with a remote MILO lockout to match the DT Swiss rear shock. The Ninety-Six also has a standard alloy rather than carbon bodied shock for more consistent results and more realistic cost.

The 2009 DT Swiss carbon rims are also swapped for the more affordable but still remarkably light (sub-300g) Alex Scandium rims. Twist rather than trigger shifters on the flat bar, a semi titanium XTR cassette and a Selle Italia carbon saddle also keep weight to a minimum.

BB30 adds noticable stiffness to the transmission: bb30 adds noticable stiffness to the transmission

FSA K-Force BB30 cranks are more about maximum stiffness and gearing range though. The 185mm front brake rotor upgrade means it stops as hard as it goes. It’s worth noting that the cheaper XT spec carbon 3000-D bike (£3269.56) and the alloy Ninety-Six bikes (£2298 and £1788 respectively) also get a riser bar and shorter stem for a more trail-friendly feel.(bikeradar.com)